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Bohica, don't leave it too long.
It will leak onto your starter motor and you'll then have to rebuild the coil.
the better the tools , the easier the job
you do not have to remove manifold, but you may appreciate the opportunity to clean it if you still have your egr connected, in fact if it's still connected remove and clean everything.
I have successfully tightened that with a crows foot, to about 6Nm. I could not get it tight with a ring spanner, access is bad, you know. So I bought the crows foot. The crows foot is just a socket on a 10cm extension.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
EGR? what's that? [wink11]
I was able to replace my FPR without removing manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
I kept the old unit and bought a repair kit.
My FPR came from RoverLord, may he RIP.
Will see if I can find the online guide. Handy hints which holds the bolts and gasket with a rubber band ….
I plan on two headless bolts to line up the FPR, tighten up the bottom bolt, remove one headless and replace with the FPR bolt, tighten up and repeat.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan
Online guide will be handy, I've not done one of these before. Likely to be the first and only!
The reference to removing the manifold for ease of fitment is about the fuel return line(pipe) at the front of the head.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan
No need to remove manifold for FPR, although it is made easier.
Done FPR twice, not an impossible job, would be easier with a second elbow about 2/3 the way up your forearm that bends the opposite way. [thumbsupbig]
Leaking FPR will also (eventually) kill CPS on bellhousing, ask me how I know. [bigwhistle]
So I thought I would clean up all the old bits for the EGR cooler and delete them. But after going for a short drive I found I was leaking oil from one of the studs that was on the head for the EGR cooler
https://i.ibb.co/cNjNXVh/photo-2022-06-11-18-33-45.jpg
Is that meant to leak oil? the other side doesn't.[bighmmm]
[thumbsupbig]Quote:
Done FPR twice, not an impossible job, would be easier with a second elbow about 2/3 the way up your forearm that bends the opposite way.
I guess it's pretty obvious but remove the lifting eye for access.
I found the best angle of attack for the bolts was a 3/8 drive socket with a long extension through the gap in the inner guard plastic liner.
Use two bolts with no heads then hand replace with bolts one at a time then tighten with the socket. AFAIR there are 3 bolts so do the one without a headless bolt first.
The front pipe union I found impossible with a crows foot to get the required 18ft Lb. The crows foot was too long from Open end to the back of the crows foot. I also tried a ring spanner with a segment cut out to clear the pipe but that did not work as a ring spanner depends on it all being present.
I bent a open end spanner after heating it and I ground the sides off it. It would have been better IMHO to cut the head off and reweld the shaft at 90 degrees right up next to the head. I don't have the skill to do that and I don't know how chrome vanadium welds. ( is it possible with a standard rod?)
I had to remove the alternator stay and the oil pipe to the vacuum pump to gain access.
Regards PhilipA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Loko
No put a bolt in it that's not too long
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaaaiju
No as in, No oil should not come out of that with the stud out?