Mine has a dealer fitted ARB bar. Whoever fitted it just used scotch locks to tap in. They were probably just ok when it was new, but did they cause some problems later.
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Mine has a dealer fitted ARB bar. Whoever fitted it just used scotch locks to tap in. They were probably just ok when it was new, but did they cause some problems later.
Blinkers have an ADR flash rate of between 45 and 120 times a minute. Anything outside these parameters is defectable.
This fell off. Car only had one when I got it, but it has been fine, until now while I am burrowing around trying to get it to start.
Does anyone have any success stories about reattaching them?
Attachment 195136Attachment 195137
Try a dab of liquid nails. I've used it on dash bits, it seems to be holding but I did allow the recommend curing time before proceeding.
Displaying a rare degree of patience there, Ian.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
I've got some of that somewhere, I'll give it a go. If it hasn't gone hard in the tube[bigsad]
Behaviour quite untypical of me, but I was in fear of a single piece dash from door to door and floor to windscreen. [bigrolf]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Your LN will be hard.
thnx for the reminder! One missing on the D2 here too. I think it's in the glovebox, but can't be sure, otherwise I'll have to hack one of the spares car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
I was thinking of epoxy, JBWeld or fibreglass.
Can recommend this stuff works well on just about everything
Attachment 195142
I've got something like that to bond the panels on my OKA. Worth a go.
D2a had a bit of a hissy fit about a week ago.
Early morning had to take missus to airport .. hit a roo.
Not a lot of of time to have a good look, but LH corner of bumper gone.
At the same time had to deliver 6x4 trailer back to friend.
On the drive to Mel, car had lost a lot of power .. more Tdi like, then Td5. Up the hill past Castlemaine had trouble holding 80, down to third power level.
Pulled up again and tried to be more sure of turbo hoses, etc ... but still had good turbo pressure according to TD5Spy, etc. No time as had to get missus to her plane too.
Anyhow got back home too lazy to do anything about it etc ...
Quick look(reminder) of what MAF values should be, nanocom connected and then compared to what the D2 was doing.
Yup! MAF values down compared to D2, so swapped D2s MAF to D2a and other way around(for now).
Just got back from test drive and D2a now has it's power restored ... new MAF time.
But the kicker!
D2 was originally owned by brother. We must have changed MAF wayyy back when(around 2017) due to whatever problem it must have had .. and solved. And then in about late 2018/early 2019 he got himself a new dual cab, and I 'stole' the D2 from him. It's been mine ever since!
So whilst swapping MAFs between the two TD5s, I noticed that the MAF going from D2 to D2a was a cheapie of unknown origin .. and most likely ebay special(I know the bro, he's like that). Other then the typical Chinese oval QC sticker on it, no numbers. D2a MAF had siemens and soem part numbers, etc ... ie. original stuff.
Goes to show, and I fully understand that cheapie MAFs can't always be relied upon, but this one can.
I can't recall the MAF values you should see on the nanocom, but the original Siemens one would spike at a max mid 400s for a fleeting second, then max would hold more steady like mid to high 300's, whereas the D2s ebay special would get into the 600s and hold mid to high 500s.
Anyway, swapping has now confirmed the D2a problem .. now the next problem is ... time to cheap out again? .... or not!
