What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

I tried to remove the rear diff. I have to remove a sway bar link but the nut part just rotates, and it is very tight, what gorilla put the link in? Oh yeah, that was me.
Removing the drivers side hub and half shaft was tricky, I had to put the bolts back in a few turns and hammer it. This was replaced 3.5 years a go with a genuine hub. The passenger side came out a lot easier. This side has, I think the original hub.
One of the bolts to hold the diff guard was missing. That would be on me. It let lots of water in and oil out and bang goes the diff. The other top bolt for the diff guard was there, but the diff guard had broken near this mounting point.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

I tried to remove the rear diff. I have to remove a sway bar link but the nut part just rotates, and it is very tight, what gorilla put the link in? Oh yeah, that was me......

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[bigrolf]

There are two different types, I think depends on what brand you have. I think original have an internal allen hex(maybe 5mm??).

Use a ring spanner on the nut, and allen key on the end of the shaft while you loosen the nut.
Saying that the allen key is far too small to be of any use and will almost definitely round over as you undo the nut.

I had to grind the links off to get them off the parts bomb to fit them to the D2.

But when I went to fit the roll bars to the D2, the links I had bought had an external hex section, so a small socket went onto the end to hold the shaft while you tighten the nut.
I found some cheap Delphi branded links for reasonable $s

I think some may have a hex section on the back side of the link between rubber boot and sway bar too hold the shaft section.

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Originally Posted by AK83

[bigrolf]

There are two different types, I think depends on what brand you have. I think original have an internal allen hex(maybe 5mm??).

Use a ring spanner on the nut, and allen key on the end of the shaft while you loosen the nut.
Saying that the allen key is far too small to be of any use and will almost definitely round over as you undo the nut.

I had to grind the links off to get them off the parts bomb to fit them to the D2.

But when I went to fit the roll bars to the D2, the links I had bought had an external hex section, so a small socket went onto the end to hold the shaft while you tighten the nut.
I found some cheap Delphi branded links for reasonable $s

I think some may have a hex section on the back side of the link between rubber boot and sway bar too hold the shaft section.

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There is no internal Allen key, and the bit by the rubber boot looks smooth. I may have to cut it off and drive without it, won't be the first time!
I'll have another crack tomorrow, I'm tired at present.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

There is no internal Allen key, and the bit by the rubber boot looks smooth. .....

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There should be something, because if not, you can't tighten the nut properly sometimes, ie. the shaft will rotate as you tighten nut.

If nothing on the backside, and the shaft looks filled in, could be full of crud, I reckon 99% will be if you go off road a bit.

Poke it if you can and see if it will hollow the shaft.

Here's an image and you can (kind of) see that the shaft of the threads should be hollow .. if it doesn't have an external hex like on the Delphi links.

And I think I was wrong about the possible hex on the other side of the shaft to the sway bar. It's more like round with two flats, where you could fit a (slim?) open end spanner to counter the rotating shaft.

Here's a YT vid with some random chap doing them, and you only need to go about 1min into it to see what I'm referring too. I think the Meyle brand are supposed to be one of the LR original brand types too.

But like I said, if you have the allen key type, most likely situation will be that the allen key will round off if the nuts have seized on. If you want to keep them, spray the nuts, if you're going to replace them, grinder is your best tool for them!

The truck went out for a few hours today, and I feel the need to report back and tell everyone nothing has broken, there are no new lights, sounds or actions happening on the truck! Very out of character Attachment 195537

Started her up Tuesday morning to go to work and noticed battery lamp was lit. Checked the Bluetooth voltage tracker and sure enough no charge from alternator. Checked for problems and found nothing obvious, so turned off motor, restarted and problem was gone. It’s now been five days with a number of starts but no repeat of issue. Scratching my head wondering what happened, anyone?

Crack on, the issue will either disappear or develop.

check that the big round plug on the front of the engine is not leaking oil, as it will migrate into the brush set of the alternator.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

check that the big round plug on the front of the engine is not leaking oil, as it will migrate into the brush set of the alternator.
Regards PhilipA

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And then the oil will turn into a tar like varnish and then the brushes will stick.

Short term I agree with Ian, but eventually will be fixing something.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

check that the big round plug on the front of the engine is not leaking oil, as it will migrate into the brush set of the alternator.
Regards PhilipA

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TD5?

Biggin appears to have a V8. different setup, alt on top of engine.