Spent hours doing a one hour job of putting an extended sump on the LT230.
I couldn't get a good purchase on a bolt on top of the crossmember , so decided to take it off. Stripped one of the bolt heads on the cross member which you may recall are recessed into a little nook.
The bloody thing would not move with a smaller socket whacked on, heat from a MAP gun, cold chisel , or over centres. In the end I just cut the head off with a Dremel and cutting wheel, and the shaft just came out with fingers GRRR.
It shouldn't leak with the gasket and Permatex each side of it, and Loctite 567 on every thread.
So why are the two big /bolts nuts with studs on top on the LT230 cover?
Regards Philip A
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Hi Tombie,
Well I had better look a bit harder, I couldn't find any pins anywhere metal or otherwise hence the reason I assumed the plastic ones had disappeared. Thanks for the heads up. I'm cleaning everthing up tomorrow ready to reassemble.
Cheers Marty
Hi There,
Well thats the head rebuilt, got caught out by the "silicon sealent in the wrong place on the cam carrier" trick. ONce that had been rectified all ready to refit tomorrow.
Hi Tombie,
Well my friend this engine had plastic dowels and they had snapped off flush with the head, found them whllst cleaning today. Metal ones have now been fitted. You had me going for a while there.
Going to fit the timing chain cover tomorrow, what a job it was cleaning that lot up. I've removed the alternator now it will be easier than trying to get that small 50 mm peice of rubber hose in at the same time as lining up the dowl and getting all the bolts in.
Cheers Marty
Today smashed in upper and lower ball joints and re sealed the front diff y did I wait so long to do the ball joints how nice does it drive now worth the cuts bruises and swear words
1960 series 2 143001010
1976 series 3 91331709c
06 discovery v6
2014 discovery tdv6
2010 cub supamatic drover
Programmed a new key on the wife's D2, now for the wiring fix on the shuttle valve
Darren
Landrover Discovery 4 The tow horse
2010
IID Gap Diagnostic
Landrover Discovery 2 TD5 (sons project !!!mad!!)
2002
Nanocom
Landrover Discovery 3 .....Gone not forgotten, Discovery 2001 td5...gone, Discovery 2A v8....gone, Discovery 2000 gone
Did option B. Well, a couple of days back actually. Was getting the 3 amigos occasionally for seemingly no reason at all, just driving down the street, backing out of the garage, out 4wding just bong bong bong look down and the 3 lights are on. Stop, switch off motor, restart, all good again.
So decided time to do something about it. Started by lifting ABS unit to try getting screws out from underneath unit, after about half an hour decided it would be quicker to remove unit and bleed brakes after.
So with unit on bench, removed the plastic switch unit, lo and behold, the insulation on the brown wires going from the resistors(?) to the connector was broken down, bare copper wire, so I assume the bare wiring was making contact with the body of the ABS unit itself.
Checked resistance of switches, all ok. Soldered in option B wiring, covered with heatshrink, re-installed everything, bled brakes and modulator using Nanocom.
No more 3 amigos so far.
Hopefully the situation stays that way.
If you are wondering why it has taken so long to do this to a 2004 D2a V8, it is because I acquired this vehicle about 18 months ago with only 32,000 km on the clock (just now ticked up 50,000) was in showroom condition still with all the paper part number stickers underneath, obviously never been near a dirt road or even a wet one it seems.
It came from Ascot in Brisbane, and apparently was traded on a new Disco, can only assume it was probably used to go to the local bowling club once a week or so. Anyway after a few mods it now performs quite well, I think it surprised a few of my fellow club members at Levuka a few weeks back.
Cheers all
Plumbed up the inline stat mod with a brass bleader and low water Engine Saver alarm as part of the breather. Means Stat is a bit further away than I like but holds an 85 degree idle nicely. Just need to get some black plastic and Sika to cover the holes that held the top radiator hose (the hose no longer runs in the original spot but rather runs on a more direct route to the top of the radiator. Cheers
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