Master
SupporterLeast in WA coppers would be saying above the bullbar/bonnet is an additional protrusion that'll cause more injuries to a pedestrian. Personally I'm of the opinion that it's fairly immaterial after the rest of the bullbar hits someone but that's the rules.Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
Wizard
Subscriberhttps://www.transport.wa.gov.au/medi..._VS_IB_132.pdfI don't have driving lights and plan to put my light bar 90 degrees forward ie connected to but forward of the top ARB bar. Then I won't be obscuring the road immediately above and over the bonnet with the light bar.
We won't talk about the GPS, phone and TPMS inside the cab on the dash which do obstruct.
This may clear up mounting locations
1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)
Wizard
Supporter.... it is essentially the same in the State of Victoria
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Wizard
SubscriberShould be the whole country.... it is essentially the same in the State of Victoria
Not just agreeing with the rules (can’t argue with them☹️) but if we can’t have a standard across the country by now, ??????????????????
1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)
Wizard
SupporterAs i understand it, the over arching rules covering vehicle modifications are contained in federal government legislation but it seems that because it is the individual state governments that have responsibility for vehicle registration and “roadworthiness” that could be the reason why “enforcement” varies across the nation. Here is the Victorian version with illustrative pics - Fog lights & additional headlights (driving lights) : VicRoads
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
Super Moderator
One rule, eight interpretations.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Master
With 4 new ball joints, sump and rocker gaskets, and a few bibs and Bob's the old girl qualified for QLD plates.
The bill at the fixit shop was just over $1400.
I had a bleat when I got the estimate with $200 for the sump gasket but, my error, that included labour.
The job went from an estimated 6 hours to 13 with uno-operative ball joints but our local bloke kept to his estimate which I am very impressed with.
Has certainly stiffened up the slight waviness on the steering wheel which is very nice.
My only quibble that the steering wheel is not centred.
Hopefully an easy fix when I get round to it.
Wizard
SupporterI think my oil pump bolt fell out.
Swaggie
I was reading that and was thinking that’s probably what it was. Hopefully no damage done and an easy repair... with a bit more loctite on the bolt.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Swaggie
SubscriberFitted new LH front hub as had a Buzz sound on last few feet of braking to a stop.
Its a long job and a bit of a PITA, especially since my ABS male plug decided to self destruct into 3 pieces. I fixed it with that UV cure resin stuff. No 3 amigos and downhill assist still works so great.
It is a Britpart hub, as I ordered it from LR Direct to be more confident of getting the correct number of cogs for the ABS. What took the longest time was working out the orientation of the little bracket that holds the ABS off the CV joint. So far so good with the RH one which has been in several months.
Hints-use lots of penetrating oil on the splines. I also put copper grease on them on reassembly. You have to remove the ABS cable first. I used the same nut , just staked it in a different place ( as I replaced the driveshaft in a different place). It helps to turn to RH lock when doing the back nuts and LH lock when doing the fronts.
The hub would not come off the driveshaft easily , but it fell off on the way to the vice. LOL It seems to me that this is pretty normal, but the driveshaft comes out easily and goes back in pretty easily, as long as you support the shaft when replacing. On the RH one I had to place some wood under the vice and drive out the shaft. I tightened with my rattle gun, then used my 4:1 geared assister with my torque wrench and stood on it. I t didn't click over 100 therefore 400Ft Lb but close enough methinks.
Regards PhilipA
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