Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

The old girl is giving you so many wonderful opportunities to show patience and resilience!

Originally Posted by Slunnie;[URL="tel:3257195"

3257195[/URL]]The old girl is giving you so many wonderful opportunities to show patience and resilience!

Yes. She could have done it a couple of years ago when I really needed it.
I’ve packed up for the day. I’ll see how she feels in the morning, although I’m not sanguine. In my experience the “she’s “ in my life are not morning people. Not night people either, come to that.

"She" appears to have a headache... Won't open or even respond to the fob, and yet Nano say keypress detected. So of course she is currently immobilised. AKA didn't work but I was probably doing it wrong. Red LED is on when the key is in. Batt was at 11.88, and we all know they hate that... Charger on, and if it ever stops raining I'll try it again..... Sigh, all I started out doing was change the coolant hoses. Perhaps "she" doesn't like blue...

Originally Posted by Tins

..... Charger on, and if it ever stops raining I'll try it again..... Sigh, all I started out doing was change the coolant hoses. Perhaps "she" doesn't like blue...

Or an allergy to silicon!

So I decided to finally treat my D2 and gave it a full service and some new parts;

• Engine Service
• Transmission Service
• New Transfer case fluid
• Installed a D2a intercooler
• New Radiator
• Fitted the bullbar which I've had since I owned it (to replace the cracked bumper) and just needed the mounting kit

I am still to give it another wash and replace the current bulbs with LED's so I don't get a trailer light flashing
Also need to get a new shuttle valve switch and install that (with the option B wiring right out the gage)

Next service at 350,000 will include front and rear diff new fluid and plugs.

20251128_155741.jpg

Originally Posted by Adran

So I decided to finally treat my D2 and gave it a full service and some new parts;
......

I am still to give it another wash and replace the current bulbs with LED's so I don't get a trailer light flashing
....

If you're getting the trailer lamp with your indicators, 99.9% chance that you have a bullbar, and it has indicator fitted and they're incandecents. Doing this, the system thinks there are added bulbs from std, and it's set up to think in this case it has to be a trailer connected. If your goal is to rid yourself of this situation, just fit cheap/dumb LED bulbs to the bullbar.
Note that if you go all out and fit dumb LEDs on all indicator slots, and you connect a trailer, the trailer indicator most likely won't operate. Also, there is a possibility that with all LEDs on your indicators, you may get the dreaded quick flash situation(like I did on the D2) ... I changed all the body bulbs back to incandecents, and just left the bullbar ones as LEDs. You can get better quality CAN compatible bulbs that should operate properly.


More importantly with leds on brake lights.
The cruise system needs to feel some resistance through the wires to enable itself. If you fit elcheapo brake bulbs(ie. with no feedback type system) your cruise will either just not work, or it will do erratic things.

I stupidly forgot this requirement on my D1, fitted mid priced(high quality looking) LEDs on the brakes and of course CC went haywire and then didn't work.

You'd think I would remember this for next time, but alas NOT! ... and did same on the D2, and of course no CC.
The easiest way is to do the pillar brake lights as LEDs but leave the high mount bulb as std incandecent.
Then, you HAVE to remember that, if the CC ever stops operating, or works erratically, then 99.9% chance that the highmount brake bulb has blown.

For the D1, I found CAN compatible bulbs(Philips or Osram brand) and they worked fine, but they cost a lot more.