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Thread: TD5 sump question

  1. 22nd February 2016, 02:41 PM #1
    killjack
    killjack is offline Fossicker
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    TD5 sump question

    So this could be a stupid question but I'm a newbie

    so this past weekend I took my sump off to loctite the oil pump bolt, it had no loctite on it but it was tight so that was cool, but I loaded it with loctite anyway, what I noticed as the sump was off is that I can see my fly wheel, I also noticed there's a gasket between the sump and bell housing my question is, was oil supposed to pour out of the flywheel side because there was no oil in there?

    Also what's the correct tightening sequence for the sump? Am I supposed to tighten the 4 bolts that connect the sump and bell housing first before tightening the bolts that connect the sump to the block?

    Thanks.
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  2. 22nd February 2016, 03:17 PM #2
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    joel0407
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    It sound like you don't have the Rave manual. You really should get it. I can't help you at the moment as I am at work but the tightening sequence and bolt torque is in the manual.


    Happy Day
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  3. 22nd February 2016, 03:22 PM #3
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    nismine01
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    That NO OIL poured out of the flywheel side is GOOD it means the rear main oil seal and the front gearbox seals are working properly still.
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  4. 22nd February 2016, 03:23 PM #4
    PhilipA
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    Oil builds up in a little cavity at the back and when you take the sump off it flows out.
    Someone on here drilled a hole which turned out to be in the wrong place but AFAIR he also showed the correct location.
    IMHO it doesn't matter whether you drill the hole or not as the oil will still drip out.
    I still think RAVE must be wrong where it shows the humungous bolts between bell housing and sump supposed to be 20Nm. I tightened mine up a lot more than that.

    Regards Philip A
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  5. 22nd February 2016, 04:18 PM #5
    Pippin
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Oil builds up in a little cavity at the back and when you take the sump off it flows out.
    Someone on here drilled a hole which turned out to be in the wrong place but AFAIR he also showed the correct location.
    IMHO it doesn't matter whether you drill the hole or not as the oil will still drip out.
    I still think RAVE must be wrong where it shows the humungous bolts between bell housing and sump supposed to be 20Nm. I tightened mine up a lot more than that.

    Regards Philip A
    From the Workshop Manual the humungous bolts should be 50Nm and the sump bolts 25Nm and there is a sequence for the sump bolts.

    Nick
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  6. 22nd February 2016, 07:36 PM #6
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    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
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    firstly, grab the rave.

    roughly

    mate up the sump, make sure the gasket is in place, start all the small nuts and studs (with loctite), wind it up to touching

    install the long bolts at the back. (with loctite)

    tighten the nuts and studs to ~12nm starting in the middle of the long edges working in an alternating pattern like this

    center left
    center right
    forwards one from center left
    rearwards one from center left
    forwards one from center right
    rearwards one from center right.
    add one to each side as you swap over left to right and keep going
    when you get to the point where there are the same number of nuts from what you just did on the side to the center of the short sides change your pattern...

    do one on the short side, then the one nearest on the long side, change left to right repeat then move from front to rear then move left to right then move rear to front

    when youve done that tighten the long bolts up center out to 25nm.

    now repeat going up to full tension.

    with the loctite on the bolts once you start winding bolts on you have 15 minutes.
    Dave

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