Thread: CDL sensor wiring on 2002 TD5

Before I decided to buy the factory linkage, I toyed with ideas and the best I came up with was an electric linear actuator which are pretty waterproof , or so they say.

You would have to make up a triangular mount to fit the three bolts on top of the transfer nose with the actuator pointing forwards where there is room.
The throw is not much on the arm, but the actuator would have to be reasonably strong and would have to be single point mounted as the arm describes an arc as it engages .
You can control it with a dual throw switch through 2 relays.

The hardest part would be making the throw arm ,as you have to cut and make a parallel sided "keyway" to fit on the pivot, and that can take hours trust me as I have done it for a kickdown cable. And the arm would have to rise to clear the actuator mount.

Just google Linear actuator and you will see lots of them and on Ebay.
Regards Philip A

When camping at places like flinders Beach at Straddie you are constantly using the vehicle...getting water, fishing etc. I found that i would forget to disengage CDL and then would start and have no TCS until i disengaged and shut it down and restarted...and it can be a pain simply because on an LR CDL (ot at least the switch) doesnt fully disengage at will and requires some reverse or steering wheel shake to assist it.

Cheers

You have me thinking again Philip. May also be an option, and the cost of a lineal actuator would not be that great.
Water ingression may be an issue, but only time would tell.
If no one else has tried this method, I may have a go in the interest of another option for engaging CDL. I have no problem fabricating the mounts and fully understand the mechanics and parameters.
We will never know if we don't try!
I would be interested to hear if anyone has tried this before.
Cloughy

see this Discovery 2: CDL Actuator Installation - 4x4 Community Forum

That's pretty well what I envisaged but with water resistance. I don't like the idea of the solonoid much just from a durability and water resistance perspective.

BTW one thing that will help fitting a linear actuator is that the selector fork is sprung so that the actuator can have full travel without the CDL being locked, and it will drop in with movement of the shaft. Ie the lever can be at full travel without the gears dropping in.

This should alleviate the issue of stalling before full travel is reached if the maths are done correctly.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by Cloughy

You have me thinking again Philip. May also be an option, and the cost of a lineal actuator would not be that great.
Water ingression may be an issue, but only time would tell.
If no one else has tried this method, I may have a go in the interest of another option for engaging CDL. I have no problem fabricating the mounts and fully understand the mechanics and parameters.
We will never know if we don't try!
I would be interested to hear if anyone has tried this before.
Cloughy

i have this one [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px4MjdeUmiY[/ame]

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Before I decided to buy the factory linkage, I toyed with ideas and the best I came up with was an electric linear actuator which are pretty waterproof , or so they say.

You would have to make up a triangular mount to fit the three bolts on top of the transfer nose with the actuator pointing forwards where there is room.
The throw is not much on the arm, but the actuator would have to be reasonably strong and would have to be single point mounted as the arm describes an arc as it engages .
You can control it with a dual throw switch through 2 relays.

The hardest part would be making the throw arm ,as you have to cut and make a parallel sided "keyway" to fit on the pivot, and that can take hours trust me as I have done it for a kickdown cable. And the arm would have to rise to clear the actuator mount.

Just google Linear actuator and you will see lots of them and on Ebay.
Regards Philip A

I have been working on an actuator. I had to draft 2 adapters: one for motor gear and one for diff-lock stud. Then I had to draw up a bracket to mount on the case, hold the motor and contain the adapter. The bracket is bent in 2 places in a "U" formation for strength. The 2 adapters are held opposite each other on a piece of pipe. The pipes length and bracket height are related so that the diff-lock stud and case remains standard and no mods have to be made. It is a true bolt-on mod. The motor is nearly identical the D2 window motor I originally intended to use except that it is beefier and has more power and torque. It was possibly a transfer case shifter motor from an unknown vehicle. Pics aren't amazing but you get the idea. Only thing left to the project is limiting switches to control the radius at which the motor gear is allowed to turn each way without rotating too much and causing fault with TC mechanisms.

Originally Posted by Chubbs878

I have been working on an actuator. I had to draft 2 adapters: one for motor gear and one for diff-lock stud. Then I had to draw up a bracket to mount on the case, hold the motor and contain the adapter. The bracket is bent in 2 places in a "U" formation for strength. The 2 adapters are held opposite each other on a piece of pipe. The pipes length and bracket height are precise so that the diff-lock stud and case remains standard and no mods have to be made. It is a true bolt-on mod. The motor is nearly identical the D2 window motor I originally intended to use except that it is beefier and has more power and torque. It was possibly a transfer case shifter motor from an unknown vehicle. Pics aren't amazing but you get the idea. Only thing left to the project is limiting switches to control the radius at which the motor gear is allowed to turn each way without rotating too much and causing fault with TC mechanisms.

Better pic