TD5 broke down after car wash

**chilla** · 9th May 2016, 05:37 PM

Maybe a complete coincidence, probably not. Today as I took my '03 auto td5 into a touch-free carwash, I turned the engine off and left the air con running as to suck in the scent from the soap. Afterwards, I went to drive off and it wouldn't go past 3000rpm and about 40km/hr. I nursed it for a little while in hope she'd come good. When I was holding up traffic I decided to pull over, turn her off and check for water ingress in the air intake and around engine bay. None. When I went to re-start, she would crank but not fire up. I tapped a few random fuses and relays and did the ignition on, accelerator pedal down 5 times procedure. I couldn't hear the fuel pump running, but it was a noisy area so was hard to tell. Anyway, she eventually fired back up. The M & S green lights were flashing, Mud & Sport, and it was stuck in either 3rd or 4th gear. I took it to the garage and got them to clear faults and she was running sweet again. I know this fault was most likely logged as a result of the non-start problem and not the cause of it. My question is, what do you guys think is the most probable explanation and is it probable too happen again? I'd hate for it to happen when the mrs is alone with the kids.
Apparently the fuel pump was replaced late last year at MR. They're extremely helpful by the way.

**Disco Muppet** · 9th May 2016, 06:26 PM

I'd be checking under the pax side kick panel and the drivers side fold down panel around the computers or fuse box for signs of water entry, it's quite common in the passenger side as that's where the fresh air intake is. If as you say you left the AC running, you may have sucked some water into the front footwell, which is where things like the BCU and SLABs ECU are.
That'd be my first port of call.

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**chilla** · 9th May 2016, 06:37 PM

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

I'd be checking under the pax side kick panel and the drivers side fold down panel around the computers or fuse box for signs of water entry, it's quite common in the passenger side as that's where the fresh air intake is. If as you say you left the AC running, you may have sucked some water into the front footwell, which is where things like the BCU and SLABs ECU are.
That'd be my first port of call.

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Alright thanks, I'll check it out. Probably be dry by the time I look tomorrow, but worth a look. Also, while in the car wash, I noticed every f**king window leaked from the top. 3 were bad enough I reached for a shirt to stop the water leaking onto everything. In most cases, is it easy enough just to replace the rubber seals to stop leaks? Or is it just a Land Rover thing? 210,000km on the clock.

**Bohica** · 9th May 2016, 06:48 PM

I put my Disco 2 through a car wash, first and last time, it leaked through the top of the rear door. Rubber seals look good.

schuy1 · 9th May 2016, 07:21 PM

check the adjustment of the door tops. They are separate to the main door frame. You will see a silver headed hex screw in the main door frame above the latch, these are often loose allowing the window tops to not seal properly. push the top inwards and tighten firmly. Will fix a lot of rattles and draughts and leaks

**chilla** · 9th May 2016, 07:21 PM

Yeah top of the rear door was terrible. Seals look good too. That's why I'm wondering how to go about stopping window leaks.

**strangy** · 9th May 2016, 07:30 PM

Was it a car wash that sprays underneath?
I had an issue with crank position sensor that would cause similar symptoms to that after any time it had the underbody spray car wash.
The sensor had been cracked from poor handling by mechanic during a clutch change.
If it's an underbody spray car wash-
Check the wiring and plug for deterioration at the CPS.

**chilla** · 9th May 2016, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by schuy1

check the adjustment of the door tops. They are separate to the main door frame. You will see a silver headed hex screw in the main door frame above the latch, these are often loose allowing the window tops to not seal properly. push the top inwards and tighten firmly. Will fix a lot of rattles and draughts and leaks

Does this go for all doors, or just the tailgate?

schuy1 · 9th May 2016, 07:48 PM

the 4 passenger doors. The tailgate is 1 piece. It has adjustment via the latch,( move in or out) and via the hinges, though they are a bit harder to get right so leave them until all else fails with it

**Disco Muppet** · 9th May 2016, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by schuy1

check the adjustment of the door tops. They are separate to the main door frame. You will see a silver headed hex screw in the main door frame above the latch, these are often loose allowing the window tops to not seal properly. push the top inwards and tighten firmly. Will fix a lot of rattles and draughts and leaks

Without meaning to hijack...
Is that push towards the centre of the vehicle?
Have to try that, mine reminds me of a Defender

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