American know how.

Upper assembly pieced together using leftover stock hoses. I used a 1-1/4 spa coupler halfway down. Nobody has done it yet but the flexible stainless hose should be used here. You can google images of different setups enthusiasts have oriented over the years. There are several ways to do this but don't be fooled by a lot of the images that you will find. The Tstat housing needs to be immediately first, then the adapter following. Therefore, the pics that show the new inline housing fitted into the factory radaitor cowling where some finesse grinding and cutting has been done to situate it will not work as well.


This is a picture of mine showing the correct orientation of the assembly. I am in the depths of another project right now so I haven't yet installed the flexi upper hose yet, but this is how it currently stands

Parts ordered from JEGS in the USA. $174 including delivery. Should be delivered in 2 - 5 days.

Anybody looked at putting the inline housing in the metal pipe that comes out of the inlet manifold and therefore getting it even closer to where it should be?

I don't know how big the inline housing is but looking at photos it looks like it might fit. Only need to take off the belt and the AC compressor to get to it. Then put the bleeder where the existing one (or keep the existing one) is with a 90 bend.

Thoughts?

I'd keep as many joints out in the open where you can watch for leaks, :angel:
I'm not sure that 30cm is worth the trouble.

You may be right Pedro, but it would look a lot neater!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Battler

Parts ordered from JEGS in the USA. $174 including delivery. Should be delivered in 2 - 5 days.

Anybody looked at putting the inline housing in the metal pipe that comes out of the inlet manifold and therefore getting it even closer to where it should be?

I don't know how big the inline housing is but looking at photos it looks like it might fit. Only need to take off the belt and the AC compressor to get to it. Then put the bleeder where the existing one (or keep the existing one) is with a 90 bend.

Thoughts?

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I can feel a write up coming on...:cool:

Did you use a thermostat that is easy to source locally in Aus?

Cheers

Yeah, here is the description from the JEGS website:

Thermostat:

GM, Ford, AMC
180? Thermostat
Fits Applications:
1966-1988 AMERICAN MOTORS
1967-1993 BUICK
1976-1982 CADILLAC

So there should be plenty of those here.

Seriously considering doing the electric fan mod using Mustang parts as well. A guy in the US has done it and he claims his mpg went from 11.5 to 13.4mpg. That's nearly a 17% increase!

there is an open thread on another site. member was asking for a scrap intake manifold so that he could modify it to accept the stat right at the outlet. Its being worked on but no solution as of yet. The LR water outlet pipe has either 1 more or 1 less fastener than a typical GM stat housing. I was wanting to run the top hose right over to the driver side but its impossible with the OEM LR manifold outlet pipe. Circumstances won't allow me the time or space to fabricate and market an improved version.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Battler

Seriously considering doing the electric fan mod using Mustang parts as well. A guy in the US has done it and he claims his mpg went from 11.5 to 13.4mpg. That's nearly a 17% increase!

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yea there is a single 17" elec that nearly fits,, but has he driven it through a creek yet? :angel:

I completed the inline stat a couple of days ago and I am very pleased with the result. I did the mod the same as Chubbs878 except for the top part.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I used a 180c thermostat I ordered from from the USA but unfortunately it didn't work. No idea why other than it was a fancy super flow one. So I bought a Tridon 180c for $14 from Supacheap and that did the trick. My temps now are around 85c driving around town.

The advantages of this mod are:

1) temps are significantly lower but not too low (hasn't gone below 81c)
2) you can change the thermostat in under 2 minutes with minimal to no loss of coolant
3) thermostat is cheap to replace and can be found anywhere

So far no disadvantages

Cheers

Nice Job mate. I take the points about easy and cheap replacement of the Stat.

As for the temp it is interesting. Mine with the low temp stat (stock set up otherwise) runs around town at 85 degrees and if idling in this weather for a while 87 degrees. I had it offroad clibming up to 3000 feet recently at GVM all low range stuff and it was always around 85-87 degrees.

I am very keen to see your temps when summer hits, but also with towing etc. If you are sitting on say 85-88 or so even when towing and in summer then I will probably do the mod (in summer mine didnt go higher than 94 from memory in heavy traffic and idling on a very hot Brissy day but if it could stay under 90 all the time that woud be great!!).

Cheers