Could you use the JEGS Performance Products 51155: Inline Hose Drain 1.5" | JEGS turned upside down for the low water alarm,looks like the drain just screws out..Just trying to get off the shelf stuff as much as possible.
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Could you use the JEGS Performance Products 51155: Inline Hose Drain 1.5" | JEGS turned upside down for the low water alarm,looks like the drain just screws out..Just trying to get off the shelf stuff as much as possible.
wow thats ugly,, way too many clamps for my "each one is a possible leak" mind...
I have no doubt it works, but---
then again I suppose you've gotten rid of a couple:p
That's what I used for my installation but without the low water alarm.Quote:
Originally Posted by lewy
Haha. It's all visible and I like an Ozzy made Tridon... Plus beauty is in the eye. I quite like the custom look. 30 degrees out and after a hard run accelerating in inner city traffic coolant at idle settles at 90 degrees with intake air temp at 56 degrees.... I think 50/50 coolant water mix makes for a much higher (132 degree - Nulon) boiling point but doesn't actually get rid of heat as well as a lower mix ratio. Cheers Attachment 115725
On my count I am on exactly the same number of clamps... Just that I can now see them and they are good clamps not the silly stock LR ones. Cheers
I'll provide my experience with the inline mod. with a stock system i used to see operating temps from roughly 94-100 degrees.
After my 80 degree thermostat mod i will fluctuate between 80 to 84 degrees. Stock viscous unit.
I have driven both systems in the winter and on 40 degree days.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/870.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/01/871.jpg
Mate that looks good but the thermostat is a long way from the block. I also think the concerns about some people on here about the radiator water getting very cold in winter and then being suddenly pushed into a hot blocked are well founded. I'm going back to a low C 3 way LR setup that blends and avoids sudden cold shock to the block.
Cheers
As discussed I have had the inline mod done with an 82c stat and drilled hole. This allows a limited amount of water to circulate in radiator (but) slows rise to op temp. In colder weather it assists the radiator by allowing a limited trickle of water at all times to circulate, which is probably "too much" cooling and keeps the stat closed. But it stops cold shock. That is critical.
I am in Brisbane which is hotter rather than colder so in Autumn and Spring am going to swap to an 87c and 82c stat respectively.
I agree the Heavy Duty viscous fan is too noisy.
I had intended to swap to the softer spring freelander thermostat, as I respectfully and without too much knowledge nonetheless believe that the softer spring will allow this engine when it is only at idle to have the benefit of a radiator in the circuit, as the softer spring will allow the bypass to close, and send the water through the radiator.
When I still had the OEM stat it would rise to 105c at idle. In addition it would spike at speed.
I cut my old stat open and tested it in water. It opened like a bought one at 93c. I can only think the bypass spring was too hard
I just did a climb to Killarney 500 m from sea level, via Teviot Brook, and although it was an 18c day, the temperature never rose above 86 to 87.
Whatever works for you keep those temps down.
Cheers and thanks for all the very valuable posts.
Geoff
D2 2000 v8
2A SWB gone
75, 75, 85, 89 RRC gone
I think you will find that the water temperature between the block outlet and the thermostat will not drop in temperature enough to effect the opening and closing of the thermostat. Rubber is not a very good conductor of heat to atmosphere, and because i have drilled a relief hole at the top of the thermostat disc itself, there is always water circulating through the system. This prolongs warm up time i admit, but from what i see it inhibits temperature fluctuations. For the way i have set my system up, it works well for me :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
I suppose we go back to Disco 1 and RRC...they had a dead head thermostat in the motor...so they would be subject to the same cold water going into a hot block when the thermostat opened...but they did not have anything like the same problems at D2 V8's...
Cheers
