John whats up with the CD changer mate ,,,,, Theirs not that much that can go wrong in there unless they get wet ??
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John whats up with the CD changer mate ,,,,, Theirs not that much that can go wrong in there unless they get wet ??
Quote:
Originally Posted by schuy1
cant be that complicated I am still trying to throw an engine light for test purpose's only and also educate my self around the engine
I have MAF/ map/ crank/fuel temp /AAP / coolant sensors disconnected also unplugged injector harness still cranks over no engine light
so what actually does throw a mil light on a td5 ?
I actually have one of these dodahs on mine been there for 2 years I rev the ring out the engine daily with extra boost pressure with no ill side affects
Thats true ,, and yes agree i have connected this and it does make the engine rev better ,,
And I have checked the engine light on KOEO ( 2nd click of the key ) and yes it works ,, I then unplugged the MAP , MAF, no mil light even the oil pressuer connector didnt tho a fault ??
Maybe its only connected to a 3 second timer ,,so not to scare everyone ..
On my car the engine is the best part , The only drama so far was oil in the loom ,, Gazk helped out with that as it started running on 4cyl as a wire come off injector 3 ?? still no MIL light ,,,,
geordiepride
I have seen the Youtube vids on your car mate ,,she is tip top !
what Boost are you running ,, i have mine set at 19psi tops ,,,
Next question ,,
The acoustic cover on the engine ,,,,
Just a cover up ,,does it just trap the heat and hide dangers ,, yours looks 100 times neater
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob tilbury
thanks mate I have spent many hours under the bonnet LOL
running 18 psi can run more but I find 18 psi to be a happy medium while driving around town ,, when I go 4wding and I have to keep up with some bigboys with bigger engines I run 25 psi with out any over boost issues ... also my boost pressure valve is very sensitive and very hard to set at 20 psi its either to much or to less so I have it set to 18 psi ..would like to set for 20 psi for around town I may need to readjust my waste gate arm though as my boost pressure valve is way to sensitive ...
my chip set I set mine to #4 in winter and #6 in summer to compensate the density of the air
I have tried 25 psi around town but I find the automatic gearchanges are longer ideal for off road but not very good on road
the acoustic cover on the engine I normally remove these and put them in the shed... try and allow much heat away from the engine specially 4wding in summer.. I also have removed the bonnet sealing strips this allows heat to escape out past the windscreen and out the sides .. another reason is that when I check my oils and waters I like to visual check other things make sure no bolts are loose oil leaks/ rubbed through hoses etc
I have never over heated I just know that under bonnet temps and heat soak kill performance
I was thinking the heat would be better away ,,, ,
Had a funny thing ,, Gazk used his nanocom on the D2 ,, didn't show anything wrong as in battery ,, showed the car went to limp home in the gearbox ,,..
no real clue why ??
anyhow i have a mate with a snap on unit and he plugged it in and did a full sweep ,, KOEOff and a Key on running , anyhow a check battery fault come up ,,
did a load test on the battery and it seemed ok did a capacitance test ,,failed ??
so i stuck a 980cca Optima battery ,,,
so far no flashing lights ect ,,,
so have stuck the old battery that is only 18 months old on the CTEC charger it did a diagnostic and has gone into Desulphurisation mode ,,, Its only a 5 amp so may take some time ,,,,,
funny the nanocom (one) didnt pick up the problem
I was thinking of another temp guage as mine dont seem to move ,, its smack on ? up hills down ,,,, towning ,, never seems to change ,,, once warmed up ,,, but will pull the cover off
I don't own a nanocom so I cant say
I do use laptop vcads interface at work on road trains and I get the same symptoms when detecting batts the battery is no good and day earlier it showed no signs of failure (weird) I can only put this down to different temps
you mentioned you had oil in the harness .have you renewed the injector harness I only ask because there will be oil still in the ecu plugs. as the capillary action hasn't yet finished .. we can talk about this later how to speed up the process
as for the MS lights and gearbox limp mode there are few possibility's this can be.... but need to go to the easy fixes first ie battery / signal line from starter and electrical plugs
as for the coolant gauge I will give the ecu credit I once blew a bottom radiator hose and my temp gauge shot to the red the engine then shut down and I was unable to start until it cooled down
I also needed to move my d2 from out of the garage one day I knew it had no drive belt as I was doing previous work it did start up but engine was surging as there was no alternator running also had ms lights
about a year ago I was constantly getting intermittent gearbox limpmode
I went though the full system and eventually I tore down the xyz switch (inhibitor switch located on the side of the transmission )I cleaned and resealed it worked like a charm until only a few weeks ago I got an ms light and then I got an ms light only a few days ago I need to reclean my xyz switch but not going to do it until it really gives me the $hits
Yes mate had the oil in the loom ,, changed out the injector loom and made a pressure bottle with metho to purge the oil from the engine loom ,,,
when i changed the gearbox i fitted a mew XYZ switch as i have seen the dramas that people have with them ,,, Have tested the old one so have a good spare now ,
Thats good to hear the ECU has a murphy switch in the coolant temp ,,,
I do believe that the electronics are very current dependant ,, not just a clean voltage ,,
I will set up a oscilloscope on mine and take it for a drive and see if there are any spikes ,
will be interesting to see ,,maybe a dodgy reg or brush pack in the alternator ...
maybe one day i will make a test light ,,,, some have told me its an easy thing to build ( LOL )
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob tilbury
check the alternator vacuum pump I had an old Nissan that had alternator issues due to the vacuum pump leaking oil and the oil and carbon got into the alternator