One of the things I need to do is grease my U joints. One of the previous owners replace the standard U joints with the grease-able ones. How often should these be done?
Thanks
Julian
Ahh!
Re the DC, I hadn't thought about that when I said 250K km. My P38A didn't have one.
Aren't the double Cardans problematic?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
One of the things I need to do is grease my U joints. One of the previous owners replace the standard U joints with the grease-able ones. How often should these be done?
Thanks
Julian
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Don't know if there's a 'recommended' interval, so I would suggest every oil change, or more frequently if you do a lot of dusty miles, or water crossings, that sort of thing. Most of the failed ones I've seen have been rusty.
It only takes five minutes if you have a good grease gun.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I've been told they are if the car is lifted. It increases the angle that the joint has to work through, and unis aren't good at that, even when there's two at the same end, or so I've been told. That said, mine's been lifted a while with no probs, but... They say if it fails it can do catastrophic damage to the TC.
I've been wondering if there was some sort of conversion, to something like a CV joint. Guess I'll talk to a driveshaft bloke and see.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
As mentioned, more so when lifted , but not really a problem with quality greasable uni's
Already answered but just to add that when you grease them just pump the gun until you feel the trigger go hard , if you keep pumping so the grease breaches the seals then if you have a warm / hot uni after say a long run then go through water this can and does draw water / dirt back into the needle rollers shortening their lifeOne of the things I need to do is grease my U joints. One of the previous owners replace the standard U joints with the grease-able ones. How often should these be done?
Some have done this mod , the 200tdi disco's had u/j as well , personally never had issue with rotoflex.So, someone did pinch it...
Truth is, it's had a number of mods underneath, so I guess it got swapped then. I didn't know they ever had 'em.
Also re double Cardin , when they let go ,their likely to destroy gearbox and/ or tunnel
All terrain or mud ?Yeah believe they are 16s. Going to see the car tomorrow. Any suggestions for a good off-road tyre without going too crazy on the price ? Nothing too extreme needed, I plan to turn it into a family tourer rather than some rock hopper.
If your not going to lift it then 245/75/16 are a good size , will make speedo read around 5% slow
Lifted by 2 inch 265/75/16 looks a bit better ( more proportioned)
but speedo now around 9-10% out and a noticeable reduction in torque, but still acceptable, especially with remap
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
Just my two bob's worth on the tyres I have had. My D2 came on Coopers A/T. Standard size things. They were at about 45% left. Now, I have no doubt that I could have driven over lava with them, but the things were so hard that there was absolutely NO grip on wet bitumen. 2.7 tonnes of chipped TD5, in the Dandenongs, in winter. I couldn't get rid of them fast enough, so when Kevin and Wayne gave me $900 for nothing I spent it on Yokohama Geolander A/T's. Very nice, good grip on road, and about what you expect off road from an A/T. Then, like all Yoky's I have ever had, they went off. About 50 k's and they were useless. I could cope with that on the Fiat, but not happy at all on the Disco. Now, both of the cars run Maxis Bighorns, Pretty much standard on the D2, 265 something on the D1.Agressive enough tread for what I do, and , apart from the noise, very good indeed. Now, i know that there are Simex and Mickey T's out there, or BFG's for that matter, but Maxis seem excellent value for money. Did I mention noise? Good thing I'm deaf.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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