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If you have, or can get access to nanocom / test book , under bcu settings , set to always disarm with key , this is good practice even if you have 2 working fobs, you can then disarm the immobiliser when you unlock the door with key only , there are only 2 frequency's, to around sep 1999 is 315 MHz , after that 433 MHz unless U.S which was 315 , right through, handy to know if you buy a replacement fob
My 2000 is 433. The key I got was from the US, and it was also 433. Not saying you're wrong, as it isn't labelled LR. Seller said it was MG. Valeo key, with barcodes. Works fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
I'm still working thru it all but definately the security can defeat you if your LR was last locked via the fob buttons! (and by default it is immobilised) - I timed the key blade entry once... and with key alone you need to unlock the driver door, open it, and get just a key blade (this means that the key blade is separate, and unassociated from the fob electronics module or in fact anywhere near the ignition barrel ) into the ignition key barrel and start the engine within about 30 seconds of entry. How do I know this? well it comes under the title of "traps for beginners" (aka the ignorant) and without revealing the back story I decided that having a good old fashioned key to hand that will stand as a serviceable substitute should one loose the key blade from the fob or when 100kms from help one does fall into a creek WITH LR keys in pocket and drown them! ( i just did spill the beans! didn't I :redface::redface:). A little later (days) I visited a shopping centre key booth attended by as it turned out a very tolerant operator and eventually I had a vintage style key cut that worked ie turned in the ignition barrel!... and brooooom!, I'm a happy customer! Anyway's all was 'sweet' ie me loving the old time simplicity of simple key entry and start, until I needed - nup going there.......... BUT remember you've got a 30 second window.Quote:
Originally Posted by geordiepride
For those interested you need to ask for a SILCA NE27 blank and it'll need minor modification to allow the blade full entry into the ignition barrel - you'll work it out.
to settle my own curiosityQuote:
Originally Posted by onebob
I locked the doors via electronic
I had a shower then read this thread
I decided to take my blank key ..mind you my blank key is a copy from my original
I unlocked the door manually and the alarm system went off ..while alarm system was going off I quickly tried to start the engine NO GO
to reset my alarm system I needed to lock door manually and re open via the blank key and then my none electronic key started the engine
this has been a big learning curve for me because when I take my jetski out I use a blank key ..thinking the alarm works
the alarm system has flaws
if the car was electronically locked a screw driver through the key hole open left sets off alarm and a quick turn right turns its off ..after that is free for all
my ford focus has a master key the dud will will only allow to open the car as they key is cut different
hmmmm! your experience is different to mine - maybe yours has superlocking enabled??Quote:
Originally Posted by geordiepride
NB: my shopping centre key blank was cut from the original LR key blade
if that's what they call super lock they need to try betterQuote:
Originally Posted by onebob
if a screw driver opens a door and quickly locks,,, alarm is disabled basically what my blank key did
Stop trying to re-invent the wheel and read the owners manual you lot !! :cool:
Get your EKA. If you don't know it, use a Nanocom to find out what it is. If it's a stupid number sequence like 13 7 9 14, change it with the Nanocom to something easy like 3 1 2 2. If your EKA is something like C E F A .... then C=3, E=5, F=6, A=1 ... get the idea ??
Read up on unlocking and disabling the immobiliser ... Did I say it's in the owners manual ??? ... :wasntme:
Get a plain flat key cut from your working key ... yes, just a plain flat key, no FOB or electrics or buttons ... a flat key, like the front door key to your house !
Put the key in some sort of secure container, in a zip top plastic bag, with, if your require, the EKA written on a peice of paper ... you can use the LETTER style code to represent the numbers when you write it down for a bit of extra security ... you'll know how to decipher it ... others likley won't. Hide it somewhere up underneath the vehicle secured to somewhere on the body, chassis, etc ... you'll figure something out.
I have a key, in a plastic bag, with my EKA in letter form, in a wet suit neoprene sunglass case with a lanyard + clip secured underneath, with a large spring paperclip as second securing. If you didn't know where to look you'll likley never find it.
IF you loose your key, or the FOB battery goes flat, or you damage the FOB, slide under the D2, retrieve the key, unlock, disable the immobilizer, and start the car .... simples !!!
.... did I say it's in the owners manual ??? :twisted:
When you read the manual you'll understand why changing the EKA to lower numbers is a good idea. Once you have read the manual & got a flat key, PRACTICE the operation so when you need it, you don't look like a goose who doesn't know what he's doing !
Did I say it's in the manual ??? :D
.... so how did we all go ???
Spot on FLUIDS... it's been years since i had the experience and my recollection wasn't complete at the time i was typing my post.
Yes i gained entry with the EKA (code card carried in my wallet) the one time when I didn't have a working fob and was able to start the D2 and drive it no probs with my plain flat key until I pulled into a servo to fill up etc, I removed the key closed but left the door unlocked for ease of re entry On return to the car and reinserting the key and trying to start set the alarm off and no start. Took an embarrassing amount of time with a gathering audience to sort out.
Good advice too re practicing the procedure.
onebob