Thread: New TD5 - work required and my other plans

Originally Posted by ozscott

Earlier D1 at that... No passenger air bag.

Cheers

Actually passenger airbags were only standard on the top of the range d1, even at the end in early 99. The pecking order was no airbags for the standard model, driver side for mid range and driver and passenger for the top level spec.

Cheers

Steve

Interesting because I have a 95 with driver and passenger air bags and it was a base or mid level.... Fabric seats and 4 speaker stereo for example.

Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

Earlier D1 at that... No passenger air bag.

Cheers

It's actually an 04/99!
It just has no airbags, ABS, cruise control, remote locking(centrally controlled from the drivers door tho) .. no alarm, no sensors to kill the fun whilst enjoying it all, no nothing!
That's why I got it.

Just ordering parts is harder than it should be .. have to remember to tell them, it's a '98. If I say '99, they automagically go for D2 parts or pieces.

I've been a bit caught up with work and then I got the man flu, which hit me hard... So I hadn't had a chance to update things or get to the car. But I have done a few jobs recently.

Cleaned MAF and MAP
Cleaned the Maff. With the nanocom, I was getting flow rates of over 60 before I cleaned it. It seems to have dropped it down to 57 or so on idle now. Can't say I noticed any difference pre or post clean though. Fairly simple to do, there were a few write-ups I found around about it.
I also cleaned my MAP at the same time. It was fairly black. Again simple enough to do.

Costs
can of Maf cleaner $25

Cost to date
$321

Remove straight pipe/muffler delete

I was a bit sick of the noise and my wife complaining, so I removed it. It was fairly straight forward removal and swap back. Luckily the bin was full when I removed the muffler so I still had it

Costs
(150) I sold it

Cost to date
$171

Trans flush and filter change

I had been getting this weird shudder from the auto. Basically it only did it when it was cold. Given the current overnight temperatures, that was happening most mornings when I parked the car outside. If it was in the garage it didn't seem to do it as bad. Once the trans is up to temperature it would stop.

When the car is cold, basically the car would shudder at idle in P. It sort of felt like the idle was too slow. You pop it into neutral and you got a smooth idle. It was only noticeable when it was cold and generally in the mornings. When I test drove the car it was the arvo and I never really noticed it.

So the maint book has been stamped every 20,000km. but not by LR. Some services had details of what was done, others didn't. So I could see that trans was changed at 85,000. Car has done 185 now. So I thought I would start with a trans fluid change. I also went with Dr Tranny instant shudder fix additive. I had read here about someone using it with some success. Plus it had been recommended quite highly on a Volvo forum I read, as they do have a bit of a reputation for underspecing their trans at least on their turbo petrol models.

I planned to do a drain, refill drive around for a day or so, drain, refill and repeat. I ended up doing 4 drain and fills. The initial fluid seem ok. No burnt smell. A little browning of the fluid, but it seemed ok. I guess as it was a country car and he hadn't towed, it probably didn't see much in the way of higher temps. But had probably been changed before. The owner had changed the coolant, diffs and TC about 40,000kms ago per the book. So maybe the trans was done at the same time and just not written in.

I did 4 drains and fills over the course of a week and then installed the 2 tubes of Dr Trannys (google that and see what you get, a little difficult to find it in Aust). It has reduced the shudder quite a lot, but hasn't totally eliminated it. I'm not sure on that one, I will need to monitor it and see what else I can research. I will check out the flex plate and see if there is anything there. But it seems strange that it doesn't do it all the time and is temperature dependent.

I also replaced the filter and gasket. I got caught out, as I bought the filter and gasket kit. I opened the kit after I had removed the sump and filter from the trans. Then I noticed the kit didn't include the two o rings for the filter. So I ended up reusing them. Should have checked it all before I removed the parts from the car.

I used the Penrite, green fluid (full synth)
Cost
Fluid $160
Filter kit $40
Dr tranny $44
Total $244

total to date
$405

I did option B on the weekend as the 3 lights were getting a bit more frequent.

I didn't disconnect the pump, I just managed to prop it up and get the sls out from underneath. it was a bitch to say the least. Mainly due to the thread lock on the bolts. I kept questioning myself as to whether I was turning the bolts the correct way.

Access was tough, but I have some short and small allen keys I use on my bike. They were about all I could fit in there to get the 3 bolts out.

The write up on this site was great and made the job super easy.

I have been driving to work all week, and no lights. So given the frequency with which they were coming on, I think it has fixed them.


Cost
Free I had the connectors and wire.

Cost to date
$405

Pro vent install.

gavinwibrow A member here who lives close by, kindly offered to let me come over and view his pro vent install, plus the other mods he had done to his car. He also gave me a heap of disco related information he had accumulated and downloaded off the net. Which has been great and muchly appreciated. Which was great. Gotta love forums like these. My wife just doesnt understand.

Gavin's provent install, gave me some good ideas and it made for a simpler bracket than what I had initially planned. I was lucky, in that all I need to buy was the provent itself, some 25mm hose and two 25-19mm reducers. I had the rest of it.

I decided to use the mount on the firewall where the tip over sensor is located, to attach my bracket to the car. This mount has two square holes punched in it, that has two little plastic bits to hold the screws that attach the sensor. They are fine for the sensor, but probably insufficient to hang the bracket an provent off. I found the 25mm hose weighed more than the provent, so there was a bit of weight on it. they are easy to pry out with a screw driver.

I made the bracket out of some flat bar I had laying around. I stuck it in the vice and put a blow torch to it, so I could bend up the twist you see. I then just welded up the mounting bar to the top and painted it. It is hard to get measurements due to its shape. But if you measure centre to centre between the mounting holes, it is about 170mm high.
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I used the tip over sensor to mark out the holes in the flat bar and drilled a ?? hole. As I had a heap of ?? stainless bolts. I need to enlarge the sensors holes slightly for this. These fit reasonably well in the square holes in the bracket. I had to cut down the bolts as they were too long. The bracket on the firewall only allows for about 25mm behind it before you hit the fire wall.


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