New TD5 - work required and my other plans

I replaced the low pressure power steering line on the weekend.

Tips for anyone doing it.

Suck out as much fluid from the reservoir as you can. Stick some cardboard or plastic underneath the front corner of the vehicle. I got most of it out with one of those air operated extraction pumps. I then popped the hose off the reservoir and stuck the suction hose as far down the line to suck up as much as I could. It still flicked everywhere when I eventually pulled the hose off the pump.

Also you should buy the oring that fits on the outlet fitting on the pump. You get just the hose and they wont sell you the o ring unless you ask. I didnt ask. But the hose clips are impossible to get off while the hose is attached to the pump. I ended up removing the two 10mm bolts holding on the fitting and then taking the clip off on the bench. A 400mm extension for your socket helps a lot with that.

Other thing to note, is look at how the pipe is routed before you remove it. took me a bit to work it out as I didn't pay that much attention to how it went before I removed it.

I then cable tied it up out of the way so I wouldn't get anymore rubbing.

Not sure of the wall thickness of the pipe, but it must have been close to blowing its load... I felt it on the car and realised it had rubbed, but didn't know how bad it was until I got it off the car.

You need a 1L bottle of fluid to replace what you lost.

Cost for the pipe $110
Cost for fluid $25

Costs to date $815

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Installed a couple of USB ports in the car. One in the front for me, and another in the rear for the kids. The one in the front has a voltage display.

I put the front one on the passenger side of the tunnel up above the high low range selector.

Rear, I put into the back of the console. I had seen a few people on here use the rear ashtray as a mount. However, mine was broken, so I mounted it in the rear plastics.

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the rear plastic is on straight. for some reason in the picture it looks crooked.

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I'll provide a bit more detail of how I did it below.

I wired them up as follows:

I installed a relay in the engine bay up above rubber cable gland on the driver side. There was an existing hole there, so I removed some of the deadening foam and just bolted it through.

It is a 4 post relay. I am using fuse F2 with one of those jumper fuse connectors (not sure of technical term ) to trigger the relay. F2 runs the maf and EGR regulaor. I don't see any issue with jumping it off, as the relay hardly draws any current on the trigger wire. But would be interested to hear if others think it may be a n issue.

I connected the main power, off the battery and earth at the earth points near the fuse box and ran the cables back in plastic snap wrap. The relay has an inbuilt fuse, so it is protected.

Then under the dash, I had a 4 point fuse box. I am running each usb point off its own fuse. The fuse box didn't allow for a common power. So I had a circuit breaker that I used to attach the 50amp main wire from the relay and then split that into 4 15amp wires running to the power side of the fuse box. Basically allowed me to run a single wire in to the car. The circuit breaker was encased in a plastic box. I'll wrap up the wires in a plastic sleeve later.

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I used a common earth attached to the metal dash supports. Mine has a bit of surface rust as you can see.

There were some existing bolts welded onto the frame. So I decided to use those rather than drill holes. They take a M5 bolt. which you can screw in from behind to allow you to attach the wires from the front side. As mine were a bit rusty, I cleaned them up with sand paper and ran a tap through the thread to clean it up. I then used some dia electic grease to make sure it didnt rust.

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feeding the wire from the rear port, was relatively easy.

I removed the lower piece of plastic from the rear console. 2 screws each side, and then sort of tilt it to get it out. I then removed the gaiter from the high/low range shifter.

If you use a heavy gauge wire, so it is stiffer you can push it through. I went from the rear of the console and fed it up on the drivers side along the rear heater vents. I was then able to grab the wire through the open shifter area.

I then fed it down the edge of the console around the heater vents and up into the area under the dash.

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The front usb was fairly easy too. I just cut the hole with my dremel and then fed the wire down into the gaiter area and along the same route as the other wire.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clintooo

Replaced wiper blades



Has anyone else managed to get the supercheap auto blades to fit?



Cost $42

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Yeah I fitted some SCA silicone wiper refills the other day. They come in wide and narrow back. I got the ones that fit both widths and they slid right in.

ah, I didn't realise that. I'll remember that for future.