Good point JC - and while getting all these parts and doing this work you may as well get silicone hoses, clean out the intercooler and remove the egr if not already done. You can get egr kits that have a port for a boost gauge.
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Good point JC - and while getting all these parts and doing this work you may as well get silicone hoses, clean out the intercooler and remove the egr if not already done. You can get egr kits that have a port for a boost gauge.
Intercooler has been cleaned out and it's already got silicone hoses. In regards to the egr, the kit's themselves aren't too pricey, but when you add everything up, being the egr removal kit, catch-can, boost and egt guage AND the the harness, the dollars are creeping up.
I could be wrong about the catch can, but from memory, removing the egr cause the turbo to suck oil from the crank case as if there's a boost leak or something.
$55.00 EGR
$100.00 catch can
$130.00 boost egt guage
$80.00 injector harness and rocker cover gasket (Bearmach) <-- This is probably going to be more expensive because I'm going away in a couple of weeks and it won't get here in time. I'll probably head of to roverland... or Eastern ranges prestige as it's called now.
$365.00 isn't actually as bad as I thought it'd be.
What catch can are you looking at? Go Mann Hummel or nothing from what I know. I don't have one and I don't have more or less oil in the cooler. I also haven't heard that removing the egr causes the turbo to suck crank case gases, I don't see how the two are connected. Can you share something on that?
Roverlord will send you a harness and rocker cover gasket express post and will be with you the next day
if money is an issueQuote:
Originally Posted by Brenton.T
you can delete your egr for free all you need to do is make a blanking plate
then remove the butterfly flaps on the outside it still looks like egr is connected (but isn't )
catch can even the high end expensive catch cans will not catch 100%
purchase the cheapest catch can then just add in some wire wool
boost gauge for testing purchase a cheap one ..as for EGT gauge I wouldn't worry about that unless you have a heavy remap
as for the EGR this is only an emissions thing ..every engine will breath and vapour oil is inevitable ..if you have to much crank case pressure for a turbo to spill back oil ..would mean either a hole or a crack in the piston or well worn out rings leading to high crankcase pressure ..thus results the turbo can not allow to return oil quick enough... the the oil takes the easiest route
Indeed.Quote:
Originally Posted by geordiepride
I've seen the car and I would be around 95% sure it's none of those. Crankcase pressure should be evident simply by pulling the hose off the rocker cover, or even more simply by taking the oil cap off.
Brenton, have you checked that the waste gat actuator is working and not stuck? It's got a big spring, so it's a firm hand required, but it needs checking.
After that, I'd try bypassing the boost modulator. Just run a hose from the intercooler pipe direct to the wastegate. See how it drives then. If it has power then that eliminates the wastegate/turbo from the list.
If all else fails, post this up in 'Technical Chatter'. Far more of the 'gurus' read that.
FWIW, Brenton took me for a drive while I checked the boost in the Nanocom. Seriously, I thought my 300 with the seemingly stuffed turbo was gutless. But, the car starts and runs like a TD5. It blows no smoke. It does have that little 'hunting' thing going on at overrun, but a lot of them do that. While the .bar figures seem unrealistic, I have never driven an unboosted TD5. Maybe that's what they would be like. It feels, even from the passenger seat, to be non turbo. All it's lights are on, but there's nobody home.
I can't find it now, but sierrafery has some tips about dropping the EGR, stuff I didn't know. I'll follow it up myself when my car comes home.Quote:
Originally Posted by geordiepride
I should add, while Brenton's car exhibited oil at the ECU plug, the Nanocom showed no faults.
Well, I think it was you, SF, maybe posted on LandyZone?Quote:
Originally Posted by johntins
Wow, having to play catch up on my own thread 0.o Thanks for the posts and ideas.
I replaced the injector harness yesterday, which was pretty straight forward. Except for the rocker cover gasket, that took like 4 goes. Anyway, while doing that, I stood the ecu up to see if any oil would drain out, but nothing did so I didn't bother pulling the cover off and checking inside. I cleaned everything up, put it all back together and took it for a spin. And the intermittent power loss problem was gone.
Then comes this morning. Got in to drive to the physio, and it now just has a power problem. It's got no guts until about 2800rpm, and then it picks itself up and boogies along the road. I should also point out that it hasn't been feeling quiet as gutsy as it was just after I cleaned the map sensor. So I may have to pull that out again, and if it has all gunged up again, I'll go ahead and remove/block the egr and soak the inlet manifold in kero or something.
I'm heading up to echuka on friday and would like to have it sorted by then, but it seems I'm taking 1 step forward and 5 steps back. To bypass the boost modulator, can I just put a connector in and join the two hoses that are there? Right now my niece is 'playing' the piano and my nephew is loosing his mind over a cut, so I can't think straight. I'll check in again after.
IIRC, there are THREE hoses there.So, leave the top one that goes to the intake connected, and join the other two, the bottom one that goes down to the pipe that connects the intercooler hoses, and the one sticking out to the RH side that goes to the wastegate actuator, together. Well, at least thats the way it is on mine. I'm assuming the update like yours is the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brenton.T