Thread: Intermittent power loss - Td5

Are you getting a reading from the maf? Sounds like there may be no signal from the maf due to the 15 to 20 delay then power (uses defaults after about this period of time). Faulty connector somewhere perhaps?

X2 checkng the Maf sensor and the contacts, also check the wiring from it to the Ecu which can get brittle across the front of the engine.

What scan tool are you using? The td5 though odb2 compliant doesn't use any of the standard codes except for the transmission. If the tool covers the engine and it has an instrument mode, see if it can read theairflow while running. A dud MAF may not throw a fault code but will give a flat line signal, where as a good MAF will range up to 500-600 depending on engine rpm. Otherwise if you have a good multimeter that can read high resistances, there is a thread some where on the forum which lists the resistances across the 3 pins. Finally you can unplug the Maf and it will use default settings, so the problem should no longer appear.

Cheers

Steve

Is the pump noisey when you turn the ign on from cold ? , maf check / disconnect is a start point , but these symptoms from cold can also be the start of injector copper washers bypassing, which, after running for a few seconds wil bleed up giving you power back

Thanks for the tips. I'll look into the maf, but it'll have to be with a multimeter. I have access to a bosch scanner, but it's pathetic and I'm yet to see work on anything but a Ford Explorer. I went to supercheap auto today and they scanned it (also bosch but different model) but they didn't check any of the readings of the values, just fault codes. I don't think it's the copper washers because if sometimes happens just while driving.

There is bound to be a person with a Nanocom near you, that you could use to get better readings.
There is a list on here of users who can help. I'm a little bit tired after the game tonight. But I will be back home tomorrow, although Williamstown may be a bit of a hike.

Cheers

Bo

Tested out the maf with a multimeter, and either I got a dodgy reading from the multimeter, or the maf is busted. When the engine was off, I was getting a reading of about 1.3 (or 1.6 not sure which but it was steady) while with the engine was on for some reason the reading was all over the place anything from 0 to 15.7 volts. I think I'm gonna need another scan to be sure.

You need to check the resistances across the 3 pins of the Maf sensor not the voltages.

Managed to find the thread with the figures.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ml#post1638565

And check that your multimeter is capable of reading high resistances. Most of the cheap ones won't be able.

Cheers

Steve

Originally Posted by Brenton.T

Hey all, Had this problem for a couple of weeks, and am not really sure which route to go. I've replaced the turbo hoses with silicone items, which had questionable fitment, and I put a new maf sensor and fuel pump in not long ago. Today I hooked it up to a scan tool, which just told me about an implausible cruise control signal. Cruise control still works, anyway, I doubt it's relevant to my current dilemma.

As it is, just after a cold start it's got no guts, and them maybe 15-20 seconds later it roars away. This same sort of thing will just randomly happen while I'm out and about.

I'm thinking it might be the turbo actuator, but before I start throwing money at it that I mightn't need to, I figured I'd see if someone had had a similar problem. Thanks in advance.

MAF sensor will give the 20 second delay on start up but it shouldn't give any issiues while (driving failed sensor only ) unless you have a short in the wire some where

do you still have EGR if so remove the MAP sensor and clean