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You can make statistics say anything you want. ICE cars of course have fuel that burns. That's what combustion means, after all. EVs are not supposed to burn, but they do, and you can't put the bloody fires out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
MotorTrend has skin in the game. You may want to broaden your reading.
I'd suggest that ICE vehicles are not meant to burn either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tins
Data is data. No matter what the source.
There was a Tesla Semi fire a few weeks ago. made the news. First one. How many diesel semis catch fire each day in the US?
Data can be manipulated, Julian. That's obvious, happens every day. That's the purpose of the MSM, of which MotorTrend is a part. What is the ratio between diesel and electric prime movers? What caused the fire? Do diesel PMs catch fire when simply parked? Do they catch fire if the operator is stupid enough to refuel them? When they burn, can the fire service extinguish them? Does the fire service then have to monitor them, and follow them to their grave, do they need to be isolated from everything else for months afterwards? No. Do they have to have special sections set aside for parking, or on ferries? No. Can you say the same about EVs? No.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Have a look at who owns MotorTrend. Check out just where their income is sourced. Nothing to see here?
Yeah that makes sense, thanks mate. I guess I have learnt all my dual battery knowledge from mainstream sources so they're always going to spruke large brands and dc-dc products etc. - I've probably never had an issue with my dc-dc / aux battery charging since I mostly have had solar input backing it upQuote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Con't get me wrong, I have never claimed DC/DC setups can't charge batteries, they are just not the only or best way to do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by reid25
Most people get what they pay for when installing a DC/DC setup, but they can usually get a better setup for less money.
Thought this might be of interest. I don't know one way or the other, but I would like to hear Tim's opinion.
<br>https://youtu.be/TdvyTOFmGSk'si=p--GJXK3p8IAnkLf
Hi Jay Tee, and I will use how my isolators work to demonstrate how you can get around the charging problem he has.
First and foremost, from the data he supplied in his video, my guess is that his auxiliary battery is badly sulphated.
My reason for this is that the battery went down to as low as 11.80v in a short period of time, when under load. The current load of two fridges would not have been that large. This indicates that the battery was down to around 30 to 40% State of Charge of its “AVAILABLE” capacity.
Then when he went for a drive, the 25 amp DC/DC charger only charged in the Bulk/Absorption cycle for about an hour and then went into Float mode.
This means that it only supplied about 20 amperes of capacity, at best, in that short time before the DC/DC deice determined that the battery was near fully charged.
The auxiliary battery looks like an 80Ah to 100Ah capacity.
I’ll use the 80Ah capacity to demonstrate the problem.
Again based on the data supplied, the battery is so severely sulphated that it has about only 20 to 30% of its original capacity available for use.
He needs to Desulphate the battery before he does anything else, otherwise, it early demise is imminent.
The other solenoid type isolator will not solve his problem but it allow the auxiliary battery to get a bit more of a charge.
This is on a Toyota, which does NOT have a SMART alternator, but if this was in a vehicle with a SMART alternator, the problem would be worse and the solenoid type isolator would not help.
With my Traxide isolators, while you will still get Sulphation happening if you don’t maintain your batteries properly, it does take much linger to occur.
There are a number of reasons for this, but basically you get better performance with a Traxide isolator because it shares the load of two batteries, which means the two batteries will never be as low as a single battery setup, and this means you will recharge the two batteries in a shorter drive time, and because the two batteries are always in a higher state of charge, Shulphation takes much longer to buildup..
Unlike DC/DC devices ad their limited charge current, the Traxide isolators all everything an alternator can turn out too again, recharge the two batteries in a shorter time.
Also note, the guy is using a Deep Cycle battery as the auxiliary battery, but I ALWAYS recommend you use a CRANKING type battery as the auxiliary battery because they are specifically designed to take high currents ( fast charge ) while charging. Because of the design, Deep Cycle batteries actually take much longer to fully charge.
Ahhh, thats the advantage of a Traxide unit over a traditional voltage sensitive relay that isolates when the alternator stops charging.
Hi Tim,Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
If you discharge a battery to a low state of charge regularly, what is the difference in life between a deep cycle and cranking battery?
As always, thanks for your input to AULRO.
Tony
Hi Tony and sorry for the delay in replying but I am flat-out.
The principal difference between Deep Cycle batteries and cranking batteries “WAS” the number of deep cycles each battery could provide before needing to be replaced.
I emphasised WAS because this really only applies to older type deep cycle batteries verses older type cranking batteries.
With the older type batteries, while you could always deep cycle both types, dedicated Deep Cycle batteries could deliver far more cycles that a cranking battery.
Prior to about 25 or so years ago, the RV industry used cranking batteries for all its needs, like Auxiliary batteries in vehicles and House batteries in caravans and Motorhomes, and while camper trailers were only just beginning to be produced in numbers, they too were supplied with cranking batteries.
The original Deep Cycle batteries were glass and some came with as much as an 18 year warranty, but being glass were totally useless for RV use.
These Glass batteries were designed to be used in Remote Area Power Supplies and Uninterruptible Power Supplies, where they were used in large banks of batteries, where large currents could be drawn from the bank, while only drawing very small currents from each battery in the bank.
Again these banks were also charged with high currents but each battery would only be drawing a small charge current.
The first Deep Cycle batteries we recognise today were still specifically intended for the original use. as such, they had a number of limitations that made them unsuitable for RV use, but people tried to use them anyway.
Wet cell Deep Cycle batteries could be used as long as they were not placed in the engine bay.
When the first AGM type Deep Cycle batteries started being used in RV situations, it was quickly realised that they had a very short lifespan. This is because, like the old Glass type Deep cycle batteries, they did not tolerate high temperatures, or high charging currents and especially had no tolerance for high voltages.
As the manufacturers came to realise that there was a huge potential market for their batteries in the RV industry, battery techknowledgy improved, first with the maximum voltage rising from 14.1v to 14.4v then finally 14.7 to 15.0v.
At the same time, maximum charging currents rose from 20% to 35 to 40% and higher with some Deep Cycle batteries.
BUT, not sure heat tolerance has risen enough for safe under bonnet use. ( personal opinion )
Then about 15 years ago, the first AGM cranking batteries came on the market and these offered high operational advantages over AGM type of Deep Cycle batteries.
All AGM cranking batteries tolerate at least 14.7v and many are safe at 15v. They literally have no charge current limitation but best of all, they are completely safe to use under the bonnet.
All cranking batteries have been safe to discharge down to 20% SoC and many of the newer ones, as stated by the manufacturers of these batteries, can be safely cycled down to 0%.
Particularly with their rapid recharging capability, this makes AGM cranking batteries ideal to use as auxiliary batteries.