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Thread: Td5 Discovery Vibrations at IDLE

  1. #1
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    Td5 Discovery Vibrations at IDLE

    Hey all, yet another new thread for another new problem. Done a few searches and some reading across a few forums and manuals to no avail. Almost everything I read about is a vibration at 2100rpm, mine however is at idle. Does it in park, reverse, neutral and drive. This used to happen off and on, but now it's happening all the time.

    Things recently done:
    Silicone turbo hoses (old has split at the manifold)
    Injector harness (oil in plug)
    Bypassed boost modulator (down on power, didn't solve it.)
    Replaced map sensor (was down on power under 2750rpm then would take off)

    The car sounds as if it's idling smoothly, but the whole damn thing is vibrating. It's like it's at 20rpm lower than it should be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ...The goal is to have this sorted by tomorrow, so the more help the better, especially if someone has dealt with something similar.

  2. #2
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    Engine mountings? Try putting a trolley jack under the sump and gently lift the engine, see if the vibes reduce markedly.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    x2 for engine mounts , bit of rubber between the jack and sump, and just jack it 10-20 mm

  4. #4
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    So I got under the car today. First thing I did was the jack test you suggested. And wouldn't you know it, almost all the rattles in the car vanished. So I pulled the jack out and clambered around under there. I had a look at the little inspection holes, and the passenger side one has a bit of rubber just starting to press through. It's not all the way through, but it's getting there, and the drivers side one isn't far behind. So I guess that they're not completely cactus yet, but it won't be long.

    I'd like to leave it for a few weeks, or until my neck has recovered, so when someone turns up to watch, I'll do the old fashion brake 'n' rev test to see how bad they really are. If they're not too bad, as in, if they look like they'll withstand a few 3 hour drives, I'll leave them for the time being. If they're bad bad, then I guess I'll be replacing them asap.

    I've had a bit of look around on the forum because the rave way to do it seems a little overboard for engine mounts. I came across this handy looking guide; http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ounts-how.html
    Hopefully there aren't any surprises. Again, thanks for the help.

  5. #5
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    Btw: They are completely cactus. IIRC should be at least 10mm between bottom of mount and rail. Sounds like you need to live with it though for a while.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsperka View Post
    Btw: They are completely cactus. IIRC should be at least 10mm between bottom of mount and rail. Sounds like you need to live with it though for a while.
    So I've read. Still, they're holding the engine in place and not letting it escape, so they'll do for now. I have a bulging disk or something in my neck, which would make changing engine mounts a much trickier task.

  7. #7
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    Hi Brenton,
    I would advise getting the genuine LR ones and not gong for aftermarket ones. The aftermarket ones will work but in my experience they don't last. I just got a couple from Rimmer Bros in the UK, significantly cheaper than buying local inluding postage.
    Cheers Marty

  8. #8
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    X 2 wot Nomad said.

  9. #9
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    Do the gearbox mounts at the same time

    Sent by iPhone using two tin cans and Forum Runner
    Kev..

    2014 Isuzu MUX LST with fruit
    2008 Isuzu D-Max
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

    Gone ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

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