Intermittent Loss of Power

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

I corrected that statement about the ECT limitation 18 minutes before you replied cos i realised i was wrong... though where are those figures from then, are they invented? .... i see that you couldnt help yourself to not be sarcastic while i was sincere, for your information i trust you too when it comes to ECU things

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SF,

You misunderstand what I posted. In simple english... If you keep posting "As you know i'm not able to dig within the brain of the ECU..." or similar every time I ask you a question that you think might lead to you being contradicted I will start prefacing every question I ask you with the phrase I posted. There was nothing sarcastic about that. Your action A has consequence B. If you don't wish B to occur, don't do A. OK?

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though where are those figures from then, are they invented?

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Which figures are invented?

I thought your friend did some tests and it was very unlikely they were wrong?


cheers
Paul

Wobba,

Just a thought - the MAF connected, disconnected tests seem a bit weird.

Have you checked the connections and turbo "trunk" condition between the MAF and the Turbo? If you have unmetered air entering after the MAF it could be enough to cause a under read problem.

cheers
Paul

Hi There,
Yesterday finished fitting replacing the serviced cylnder head on stepsons 2002 TD5. Started up and ran a treat, some minor issues with the glow plug leads falling off. Anyway, Jon, went to the local servo to give the engine bay a good clean up which involved degreaser and water.

Job done pulled up at the pump, put some diesel in, pulling off the forecourt the engine just cut out, dead. Wouldn't start.

When I arrived he had the engine going again, however every now and again it woud misfire, complete engine cut out, then instantaneously restart again and run for maybe 5 seconds then miss again, and then again......... eventually decided to not take the risk and towed said vehicle home.

On investigation, the engine at home would start and run for varying amounts of times and either start missing or would cut out. On cut out after maybe 20 seconds the glow plug relay would click and then the engine relay would start clicking very rapidly.

Took all the fuse box connection apart for fear of water, nothing all dry as. Eventually ended up at the CAS (crank angle sensor). Took the plug off and found oil and possibly some water in the connection. Cleaned this out as best as possible with contact cleaner, plugged the plug back in again and everything was right with the world. Vehicle hasn't missed a beat on the way home, ran beautifully.

Not sure if this is relevant at all, some of the symptoms sound very similar.

Cheers Marty

Interesting that has come up as a possibility, N9. A neighbour's td5 had a similar issue with a pinched cable to the CAS - it 'made' and 'broke' often enough to cause a hairpulling session - and it took about 2 hours to troubleshoot.

On reviewing the OP's query and the thread's development, I think you have a good, easy point for wobba to check. We also found the CAS to be faulty as well in the long term, with bits of the probe having been tapped off by the drive plate as a result of the adhesive in the sensor failing.

Pete

Again thank you so much to everyone. I've learnt so much and while I've got a whole lot of work & learning still ahead I've decided to hang onto my Disco (even though it's been nothing but trouble since the day I picked her up lol) in no small part due to the support & guidance I receive here.
Thank you all. I appreciate it immensely.

Sent from my LG-D802T using AULRO mobile app

Hi Wobba,
One reason I continue on, all four by fours have issues of one sort or another doesn't matter which one you pick, however the community here willing to jump in and lend a hand is second to none.

Once you get it sorted you'll know the vehicle intimately and never want to sell it, or if you do you'll buy another one.

Lol. I'll never sell it as if feels like I'm rebuilding it from the ground up. Bhahaha

Thank you again mate. Friends are starting to laugh that I'll be a mechanic in no time. At least if I get stuck out Bush I'll be able to work out what's going on.

This power issue is annoying but I know I'll get there (I've got another MAF & MAP coming from Roverlord in the hope I got a dud one as reading is low. That or my intercooler is gunked up). As soon as those two jobs are done then I'll move onto the other suggestions.

My main concern now that I have a Nanocom is this significantly high fuel temp. The fuel cooler is not leaking upon inspection but having a fuel temp higher than coolant temp is clearly saying something is not right. Let the learning continue. At least everyone knows where I am at any given time - head buried in the engine bay of my Green Mean Machine. Lol
Sent from my LG-D802T using AULRO mobile app

It's a pity you bought a new MAP.

I was going to suggest that a wide range MAP sensor and a minor change to your engine map would allow you to bin the boost box. The big advantage is that you get correct reading from MAP sensor on the Nanocom rather than the mangled reading from the boost box.

The other thing to check re the FT sensor is the reading of the ECT and FT with the engine cold. The two readings should be very close to each other.

cheers
Paul

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Originally Posted by wobba79

Lol. I'll never sell it as if feels like I'm rebuilding it from the ground up. Bhahaha

Thank you again mate. Friends are starting to laugh that I'll be a mechanic in no time. At least if I get stuck out Bush I'll be able to work out what's going on.

This power issue is annoying but I know I'll get there (I've got another MAF & MAP coming from Roverlord in the hope I got a dud one as reading is low. That or my intercooler is gunked up). As soon as those two jobs are done then I'll move onto the other suggestions.

My main concern now that I have a Nanocom is this significantly high fuel temp. The fuel cooler is not leaking upon inspection but having a fuel temp higher than coolant temp is clearly saying something is not right. Let the learning continue. At least everyone knows where I am at any given time - head buried in the engine bay of my Green Mean Machine. Lol
Sent from my LG-D802T using AULRO mobile app

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Remove the fuel cooler thermostat and flush out the cooler, Leave the thermostat out:):)

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Originally Posted by OffTrack

It's a pity you bought a new MAP.

I was going to suggest that a wide range MAP sensor and a minor change to your engine map would allow you to bin the boost box. The big advantage is that you get correct reading from MAP sensor on the Nanocom rather than the mangled reading from the boost box.

The other thing to check re the FT sensor is the reading of the ECT and FT with the engine cold. The two readings should be very close to each other.

cheers
Paul

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Hi Paul, did you have a specific sensor (part#) in mind?
Ive often wondered why the effort to make boost boxes by some rather than a modification to the engine map.
Earlier MSB units are probably too hard/not worth the effort, but thought it shouldnt be too hard for a NNN unit.