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Thread: Broken key and no spare

  1. #1
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    Broken key and no spare

    Hi

    So the key has decided to snap in the middle, I now need to get another cut. I have seen that you can buy blanks on eBay which could be an option....now how to cut a replacement with a snapped key???
    I do have both pieces, any thoughts or options pls

    Cheers
    Luke

  2. #2
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    I bought 2 of these shells, and had a local locksmith cut them, they should be able to get a copy from your 2 pieces. You will see the case and the key shaft are 2 separate pieces.

    I simply put the electronics from the broken key into the new shell, with a new battery so no key programming was needed

    Range Rover Discovery 2 Remote Car key Land Rover 2 Button Remote Key Shell | eBay

  3. #3
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    IMO if you contact a main dealer and prove the ownership they should give you the blade's code FOC and a decent key cutter should know how to work with that or i've seen shops which can cut key after a photo or after the lock/ignition barrel so if you use superglue to join the pieces and take a pic or remove the ignition barrel and go with that it might get you out of trouble
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronson View Post
    Hi

    So the key has decided to snap in the middle, I now need to get another cut. I have seen that you can buy blanks on eBay which could be an option....now how to cut a replacement with a snapped key???
    I do have both pieces, any thoughts or options pls

    Cheers
    Luke
    Hi Luke, PM me - i'm in Melbourne and have a blank key blade that you can have if that is what you need. I'm offering the key blade only detatched from the fob (the bit that contains the electrics) a locksmith or any place that does key cutting will be able to work with your broken key blade. The re-cut blade will snap back into your fob and she'll be just like new.

    onebob
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  5. #5
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    Hi Onebob
    Thanks heaps for your offer mate, although I have already ordered a blank off EBay. I did however manage to get a key cut just so I could close the windows, it does unlock the ignition although its a bit rough and needs a bit of fiddling to get it to turn the ignition.
    The guy at the key shop told me for 10 minutes that he couldn't do it....but in the mean time was looking for a key whilst telling me that he didn't have one. Eventually he found a blank suitable and cut it for me....it's not perfect but it does the job until I get another blank sent. You also have to touch the ignition with the fob so it does its thing electronically other wise she won't kick over!

    See how we go when the new blank gets cut.
    Cheers
    Luke

  6. #6
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    Hi,

    If you have a nanocom, connect it up, and see how many keys are coded.

    If there are 1 or 2, very likely they are original, and a dealer can provide the mechanical key cutting code. With that code, a locksmith can instantly show a profile on computer screen to check against your bits.

    If there are 3 or more keys, it is quite possible that the ignition switch and barrel have been replaced, making checking before cutting even more crucial....

    A decent locksmith can count and measure the broken bits to derive the code. But FFS, check before cutting (I missed that step the first time, grrrrh).

    From my experience, a copying type cutter (Bunnings/shopping centre) is just useless painful grief...

    Lastly, even though it may cost $250 plus, a second key and working fob is a very sound investment!!

    Cheers,

    Gumnut

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumnut View Post

    Lastly, even though it may cost $250 plus, a second key and working fob is a very sound investment!!

    Cheers,

    Gumnut
    or from ebay, $68.00 plus cutting, that is with the electronics. With out the electronics, much cheaper. Some one near you is bound to have a Nanocom, if you don't have one.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  8. #8
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    Ok
    So had a look with the nanocom and there is 4 keys listed, and it's not the original ECU so which one can it be.?

    Cheers
    Bronson

  9. #9
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    Check the label on the back of the PCB and you should recognise that code between those saved in the BCU, see this too [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zgjgt2ilEgE[/ame]
    if your key is not working you can erase all the codes and re-enter your's
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    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    Check the label on the back of the PCB and you should recognise that code between those saved in the BCU, see this too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zgjgt2ilEgE
    if your key is not working you can erase all the codes and re-enter your's

    This video is getting a work out
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

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