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I wouldnt be concerned with the 3 boings at startup( are you waiting for the dashlights to go out before starting?)
or overly concerned about a "reset",
I didnt reset mine either time,,
maybe just drive it a while longer before towing cold,, mine pings on 95ron just moving off from lights even now, pinging when cold takes the longest to learn.
I have replaced MAF and 02 sensors quite a few times since new and only recently when I got the Nanocom reset adaptive values. I understand from reading a lot about this over the years that battery disconnect and grounding computer etc doesnt actually do the reset of hard values stored. Sierraferry might chime in soon.
Cheers
That’s my understanding aswell.
Fixed the O2 only momentarily. I was not able to get the replacement O2 sesnor to bounce around like the good one but it was running fairly smooth and would restart ok.
I still need to take it for a good drive but there is still something not right.
Might have to go back in and look at the valley gasket.
I don't think the fuel pressure is right either. Maybe the pump is past it. It was playing up prior to this job and now is just adding to the situation.
Have to eat some humble pie.
Removed the the valley gasket and found some H20 where it's not supposed to be.
Anyhow proceeded to removed the RHS head to check further. Not really noticeable of how it got in there. Good quantity actually in the head. No noticeable quantity of water in the cylinder of the block.
Anyway, ordering some new parts and having another go.
Can you check if the fuel pump is working ok when you remove the head and vally. I assumed if you turn the key of the ignition to position 2 it should be squirting fuel everywhere (if not contained or connected to the fuel rail). Tried mine and there was nothing. Have to checked if there is a check valve at the connection point to the fuel rail.
This journey is far from complete.
I reset adaptive values 1000km after changing O2 sensor. I had the car idling at the time and the idle tone changed immediately I touched the key and you could tell it was running much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by ozscott
That 1000km chewed up 3 full tanks of juice. Since then it has run perfectly.
Well, had another go at this job and same outcome. Not happy Jan.
Somehow cylinder 4 is getting water into the head. Wasn't happening previously.
When I removed the heads all look good internally, no steam cleaning and also no noise.
Had the heads serviced and they were in good condition.
Anyhow, parking this job for a while mainly because I can't see what I'm doing wrong.
Liner shift would allow water into the piston...
Other than that did you run a flat blade over the block to made sure its true?
Failing that use ARP head studs with stock gaskets and torque to the recommended on their web site for the kit.
Cheers
Liner shift would have only occurred after removing the heads. Maybe, but that would be some decent bad luck. Also no noise when running. It is incredible the motor even runs when water is in the head.
Didnt check the block but it has never overheated and really had no issues with overheating prior. The heads were as good as new almost and straight when removed. Wouldn't the heads warp prior to the block.
Not convinced with studs when the other head is ok.
be convinced with studs, MLS and less than 100lbs,,
overheating,, how do you now it hasnt?
heads/block warping??... not heard of ONE block warping/needing line boring, its usually always the heads needing work,,
the good news is,, unless you've seen a lot of steam,, heads are usually repairable,, ( and a good excuse to put oversize intake valves in)
your repair cost is equal to your estimated usage.
drive to the park n go? easy peasy. and cheap!
and, actually, rock climbing is easy too,,
mud? harder for longer,,
towing? harder for much longer,,
spend the $$ as you think fit... [thumbsupbig]