Thread: 2000 Td5 Auto

Gotta follow this?

My understanding of D2s from reading through this forum:

* injector harness can get contamination from oil.
* watch for the three amigos, still not 100% sure what causes them tho.
* M&S warning light can come on unexpectedly, various causes for this, and the car will go into limp home mode. I remember seeing a sticky about it.
* I've read that the harmonic balancer(or TV balancer) can start to rattle unexpectedly too.
Just happened to my brother's Td5 the other day .. it's about to get sorted.

Of course there are other things to watch for which depend on the specs of the car. Does it have ACE/SLS, etc.
Have fluids been changed: If ACE, check bushes. Don't known anything about SLS tho.
My (about to get roadworthy) D2 V8 has ACE, and I've had as good a look at the bushes, but can't really get properly under the car till I can get it started properly.
Other obvious things to check are transmission oil smell colour.
Does the car look as tho it was looked after.

I think many would agree that an important point of ownership would be to have access too, or own your own Nanocom for it too.

Your V8 top gear issue in a 90 zone sounds weird!
I currently have a '99 Tdi, and it stays in top basically from about 50-60 without issue. Torque converter(TC) locks in at about 75-ish and is pretty positive about it too.
I'd say your kickdown cable was grossly mis-adjusted if it wouldn't stay in top gear at 90km/h .. or alternatively you have a very heavy pair of shoes of some description!
Also note that there is a difference between what you may think is top gear and TC lockup, and at that speed, I'd say you've mistaken TC lockup with top gear(maybe).

My experience over the past decade or so with cars has been mainly souless, recycled sardine can Jap boxes. A short stint with a fantastic Peugot V6 406 until it had to go back, a dreadful Ford Explorer and about 20 decades ago a '79 RRC.
79 RRC was well past it use by date, and the transfer case noise drove me insane(but an insanity I could live with).
Only reason I had to let the RRC go was it was a 2 door, kids came, and my leg disability precluded me getting young kids into the rear seats.
If I had the last 5 years back to re think my mistakes .. I'd have never sold the RRC and got those seemingly practical crapola Jap boxes

D1 is slightly better than the old RRC, in that it has 4 doors!
Brother got his TD5 D2 a bit over a month ago, and it's been pretty great so far.

I like my D1(Tdi) mainly for it's simplicity, but I do prefer driving the D2(TD5).

See if the head gasket has been done already, if not you may want to budget for it in the near future.

Also do a stall test as per the RAVE manual 44.30.13, that should give you a good indication of the torque converter/transmission

Hi AK and Jason;

Thank you both for your information especially AK that was a very descriptive response. In reply to the V8 top gear issue, I agree it sounds weird. What used to happen to it was when driving in a 90 zone, unless you were travelling at 94 it would drop down a gear and then at 89 it would decide to kick up again and so forth. This problem was rectified in the end however when some low life decided to steal the vehicle and then torched it.

Jason, the head gasket issue has me a bit concerned, $$$$$$$ going off in my head. Might have to ;look into this one a bit further for costings (just in case). Thank you for alerting me to it. Might be on the safe side and see if the dealer will let me get an RAA roadworthy check done on it first. If they dont, they may be trying to hide something???

At the moment I own a C(r)aptiva and Ford cab chassis but wanting to downsize , looking to swap both for another landy they have 14,999 on the Td5 which to me seems a bit high but it does look well looked after in the photo's Ive seen. 1 for sale in Gepps Cross, SA | Motorwell | Gepps Cross | 08 8262 8333 (not sure if link works but this is the site ). Maybe someone here knows the history of this vehicle and can enlighten me.

Thankyou once again guys for your input.

The 2000 won't have the in cab control for centre diff lock, it may also not have the diff lock mechanism itself, though that's probably still in the range where it would.

Standard car buying advice needs following, check for leaks, condition of hoses, radiator condition etc.
Make sure all the electrics work, check how many keys and fobs you get, make sure at least 2 fobs.

Some specific things for the D2 auto though is:
* check the auto cooling pipes, give them a good tug and twist. Any sign of movement and tell them they need repair or replace. No excuses.
* double cardan joint on the front, check for wear. If any found then again new or rebuild.
* read diagnostic codes for all the systems, you may find latent codes for the brake system indicating a need for new sensors
* check for what look like oil on the rear of the drivers side of engine, this will be fuel pressure regulator and must be done.

SLS, you want to see the car cold, in the morning before it's moved. If it's sitting low on the rear then likely there is leak on the lines or bags, again must be fixed. To test (as much as you can) use the switch on the dash to go to off road height. You need engine running and all doors fully closed to operate. It should take about 30 secs to get to full height, if not it suggests compressor issue.

On the engine pull off the injector loom connector, front right of engine, and see if signs of oil. If so it needs the loom doing, it's just a service item, but it's probably $200 in loom and gasket.

Go for a decent drive, you should get lock up at 85kph in D once warmed up. Change ups and downs should be smooth.

Once warm check for any signs of bubbling in header, excessive pressure hoses or leaking on rad hoses, that's your quick sign for a head gasket that's gone. The rad hoses do go firm once warmed up, but if you can't get any kind of squeeze it suggests issues. A HG is either ok or gone, there isn't really a build up stage - so you pays your money and takes your chance.

Last one I think is check the engine oil, see if you can smell diesel in the oil or the level is too high. This would be the injector o rings needing doing, small parts but needs special tool and requires a bit of dismantlement.

I guess the only other thing to check is the exhaust manifold for signs of blowing.

FWIW, that seems a bit for the D2, a 2003/4 D2A might be more that price and I've seen some decent looking ones before, you might be looking in a quiet period and if you can hold off it's far better to get a better vehicle in the first place.

I'm pretty local, so if you did want someone to come and put a nanocom on it, give me a message and I'll see if I can make it.

Hi Steve;

Wow, thank you for your detailed response.I will definitely look at all the items you listed, I may take you up on the offer regarding the nanocom but first I will give it a visual and see what my thoughts are of the vehicle. You are correct in assertaining that I am looking in a quiet time, I am in no hurry to exchange vehicles and want to make the right choice. I am glad to hear that I wasnt the only one that thought the price was a bit high also, now I can at least barter a bit.

Cheers

seems a bit high price for the year model, the d2 have dropped a fair amount in the last year or so. But saying that if it has been extremely well serviced and maintained it can save you a fortune.

Check the sticky post at the D2 page has lots of info for buying and also a check sheet to take along with you

Buying a D2 TD5 (2002-2004)

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