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Attachment 119952Attachment 119953
Attached are 2 images one of a wheel alignment from September 2016 (MINT!) and another from Feb 2017. The Feb 2017 illustrates the setback. It turns out it was 0.30 degrees out not 30 degrees out. Interesting the image attached shows before changing the bushed. It went from 0.37 degrees out to 0.3 degrees out. All by changing the rear bushes.
The front setback is also 0.23 degrees out. I have the front bushes coming tomorrow.
Sorry it is 0.3 degrees out. Not so bad I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by fitzy
Radius arm chassis mounts bent ?
Possible, same theory as axle the radius arm mount bent.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
I've sent an e-mail to Kents to see if they can measure it and identify exactly what is the issue. I hope I get a response.
R Kent & Sons - Automotive Engineering and Suspension Specialists - Smash Repairs, Suspension Repairs, Towing
MOD - Please delete repeat post.
Measure from a point on the axle to a point of the chassis might be quicker than dropping the radius arms, but I think you are on the right track.
Jazzman, if it is a bent Rear arm, it'll be a cheap fix as they are only $16-$29 second hand at you know where plus your time.
Cheers, Mario
I've long suspected those chasis mount points as a weakness. Can you drop the arms and run a stringline or similar from one side through the other?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballbag
I can, i'll have a look at what i can do shortly. The front bushes arrived today. I'll put them in tonight so a can be certain that side of things is all correct. Considering I got a 0.07 degree i'm improvement from changing the rear, it makes sense to do it to the front too.
Attachment 120823Attachment 120824
This is the alignment from Kents. Tells me nothing I didn't already know. There was some miscommunication due to them trying to rush me in and out, I have no doubt their technicians are good at what they do and their equipment is top notch mechanical measuring equipment. However I wanted to know what part was bent or causing the issue.
Instead I was told:
The car is in great shape especially for a car that has done nearly 400,000kms
It is only 10mm out and was probably manufactured like this as it is an agricultural type vehicle anyway.
The car has never been in a serious accident and the chassis is not bent.
It is in good nick for an old car be happy with it being 10mm out.
I'm a bit annoyed to be honest as while that all might be true, the reason my car is in good condition is because I look after it and pay attention to this kind of stuff. The tech who looked at it was more helpful then the PR person explaining the findings to me, the tech agreed my car was in good nick and that it is not much to worry about but was happy to chat with me for a bit, he said the amount it would cost to fix the 10mm difference is not worth it for a car this age. He asked me to go for a drive and come back to let him know if i wasn't happy with the front alignment being set to 0mm and he would change it back to 2mm toe out. I went for a drive but DID NOT ask him to change it back to 2mm, i'll see how it feels.
RAVE specs are:
Camber front and rear max 1 degree
Carster 3 degrees +- 45'
Wheelbase 2540mm
Front Toe Out 0 degree +- 10' total
So I'm in spec everywhere, except wheelbase.
Via elimination I have concluded the chassis and radius arms are not bent. The bushes are all brand new. Therefore it can only be the rear axle housing, likely where the radius arms mount to the axle housing. I'll check the radius arms again to be sure, then i'll have the mounts adjusted to make the wheel base closet to 2540mm. It will probably end up passenger side moving backward (rather than drives side moving forwards) as I have a 2" lift and this will help with guard clearance.
Attached are results of Kents measurements and what it looks like when pressing in D2 bushes, yes they are genuine and plastic outers.
