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Thread: M & S lights flashing ...non starter

  1. #1
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    M & S lights flashing ...non starter

    A couple of weeks ago oil cooler hose let loose loosing all ATF from my 2001 TD5 ...repaired that , drove from my workshop to the house no problem, turned engine off now I have M&S lights flashing. Turns over but will not fire!!Battery is only 3 months old holding 12.64 volts , removed and took apart auto selector switch , removed and cleaned all electric connections including starter motor cables.Unfortunately I don't have access to a nanacom to check faults....could this be a fault of previous lack of ATF because I'm sure I have tried all other fixes .One thing I have noticed is when the ignition is switched on the temp gauge reads normal operating temp even though the engine is cold ...not sure if it's usually like that

  2. #2
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    My lights did that last time I went camping & had the keys in it for an extended time. I took the keys out & left it for a few hours. When I restarted it all was good. I think I key locked it instead of remote locking as the key can play a part in computer programming I think
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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    I assume you've adjusted the selector switch position so the dash reads correct gears indicated ?
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

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    Quote Originally Posted by simonmelb View Post
    I assume you've adjusted the selector switch position so the dash reads correct gears indicated ?
    Selector switch adjusted correctly... Gear selector in P R N lights on static ... D 3 2 1 lights flashing D On dash M & S lights flashing, battery and check engine lights on . Turns over in Park and Neutral but will not fire !!

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    May be a bit out there, but have you tried to reset the inertia switch?

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    Without a diagnostic unit you're shooting blind, unless you want to spend a lot of time working through every possible scenario and the expense of parts swapping. Check the diagnostic system thread for an owner near you who will be able to assist.

    Given you had a major fluid loss immediately prior, then its odds on that its related to this and could be internal.

    Another quick and easy check is for oil in the ecu loom as this can also cause a bout of m&s lights.

    cheers

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rok_Dr View Post
    Without a diagnostic unit you're shooting blind, unless you want to spend a lot of time working through every possible scenario and the expense of parts swapping. Check the diagnostic system thread for an owner near you who will be able to assist.

    Given you had a major fluid loss immediately prior, then its odds on that its related to this and could be internal.

    Another quick and easy check is for oil in the ecu loom as this can also cause a bout of m&s lights.

    cheers

    Steve
    I'm in Margaret River send me a PM and I'll come round and run a diagnostic.

    Nick

  8. #8
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    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    M&S lights on their own flash for low battery voltage.
    IIR once 10•5 volts is detected the ECU cuts power to the system, the motor can still crank at this voltage.
    Can you check the voltage while cranking?
    Give the battery a charge and try again, particularly if it sat in the workshop for a while waiting for the repairs.

    Resetting the inertia switch as hinted may be worth doing.
    Subject to settings the hazard lights may or may not flash.
    The switch cuts power to the fuel pump when not connected.
    It can be bypassed for fault finding by joining the wires.

    Double check the injector harness is still conectd at the front corner of the head.
    Also ontop of the bell housing just behind the fuel regulator check the Crank Angle sensor is pluged in.
    They are the only ones I can think of that will stop the motor running.

    M&S lights + the transmission selector light is a transmission fault.
    I wouldnt expect this to stop the motor from starting.

    Does the fuel pump sound normal?
    They have been known to just give up but the coincidence factor is strong for this.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by alien View Post
    M&S lights on their own flash for low battery voltage.
    IIR once 10•5 volts is detected the ECU cuts power to the system, the motor can still crank at this voltage.
    Can you check the voltage while cranking?
    Give the battery a charge and try again, particularly if it sat in the workshop for a while waiting for the repairs.

    Resetting the inertia switch as hinted may be worth doing.
    Subject to settings the hazard lights may or may not flash.
    The switch cuts power to the fuel pump when not connected.
    It can be bypassed for fault finding by joining the wires.

    Double check the injector harness is still conectd at the front corner of the head.
    Also ontop of the bell housing just behind the fuel regulator check the Crank Angle sensor is pluged in.
    They are the only ones I can think of that will stop the motor running.

    M&S lights + the transmission selector light is a transmission fault.
    I wouldnt expect this to stop the motor from starting.

    Does the fuel pump sound normal?
    They have been known to just give up but the coincidence factor is strong for this.
    The injector harness was replaced not long ago.. it's clean with no oil... where would I find the inertia switch ?...fuel pump sounds normal. Crank angle sensor contacts were oily ,cleaned and replaced still no start

  10. #10
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    Inertia switch

    The inertia switch is on the passenger firewall.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

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