Td5 auto disco power??

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Originally Posted by jimbob

Hi all, I've done a fair bit of reading on here and else where but I can't find the answer. So I'm hopeing people's experience on this great forum might be able to help. So I've got a disco 2a td5 auto. It's had egr and cat deleted I've put a tune in by trs in Adelaide. It has slightly bigger tyres than normal 265/75 16. The disco has done 150,000ks I'm second owner full service history.
I do a bit of towing with it and this is where my problem starts. I'm towing about 2t not too heavy. When I'm in top gear on the hwy at 100ks and hit a small hill I put my foot down a bit, nothing happens, put it down a bit more, nothing happens put it down more. Now it's about 3/4 throttle and the auto just changes Back and the motor revs and I get slight acceleration. Now what I would like to get it to do is, when I put my foot down slightly the first time. It needs to tip in a bit of diesel and boost and accelerate up the incline. So do people think my vehicle has an electrical or mechanical problem or am I asking too much of the car????

Any ideas and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.thanks Jim

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I'm towing maybe 1.5t and the D2a kitted is around 2.5t ... so we're touring at approx' 4t. I've got 265/60*16 fitted which gets me about 6% oversize ... and on a std tune, egr & cat gone, and boost around 19psi it's adequate .... 265/75*16 are about 10% oversize and that's your problem (at least one of them).

See this post ==>> Mods for Towing a Caravan

... or the whole thread ==>> Mods for Towing a Caravan

You can see for my road speed (actual) vs engine rev's I'll be struggling to get enough boost unless I stay in a lower gear/higher engine revs for longer .... and with the 265/70 it works well, but imho it's at it's limit (on the std tune). 255/70 tyres would work better. 265/75 and towing 2t has stretched your legs too far ... see my post on how I "work" the auto to get results ... 90km/hr at 2000rpm is a very comfy touring speed with good economy.

You should also check your MAF .... 58-60 at idle / 600+ at WOT under load.

... and your boost of 0.90bar is off ... I'm seeing 1.30-1.32bar at WOT uphill under load

What's happening when you apply the throttle at 100 is it's not downshifting, the torque converter is unlocking ... so the engine can rev higher, but your still in 4th. Try, feathering the throttle a little as you downshift to 3rd, wait for the torque converter to lockup, THEN apply the gas .... the torque converter will stay locked for much more throttle applied ....

I don't tow in sport mode, it just lets the revs climb higher before an upshift ... I prefer to shift manually, and get the torque converter to lockup as quickly as possible in 3rd & 4th.
Hey!... it is only a 2.5L motor [biggrin]

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Originally Posted by jimbob

It will be getting an egt gauge. I understand the issues with heating up oil and slipping converter etc.
I'm driving around with full trailer and empty trailer today and I believe after doing this that it defiantly has some sort of problem. Because with an empty trailer it behaves much the same as full. It is gutless in top gear. Bearly accelerates with an empty trailer at 90ks. Any slight hill and the speed drops off. And I mean slight hill. I live in mildura, we don't have mountains or even big hills here. Is any one aware or issues that might cause this?? Eg sensors, turbo, air flow meter???

Thanks for every ones replys👍🏻

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My D2 is very similarly kitted to yours, but with trans cooler EGT and Nanocom in instrument mode and I pull a 3 plus tons brick, AND I also have a deadish spot around 80/90. Will eventually get back to Jose to revisit the reMAP, but in the interim, all good advice here, especially 3rd lockup and sports mode. It is amazing how quickly the EGT rises even on a slight slope at anything over 80 (true speed).

Thanks I have all those threads and do change manually to keep lock up. I'm more interested in if there is a fault problem causing lack of power. As I said it struggles with an empty trailer. I will check my air flow against those figures thanks.

I defiantly think the gearing with the tyres is part of the problem, I just don't think that's all of the issues.

Ok just check air flow meter and under full throttle about 3500rpm, the highest reading I could get was 340!!😱😱 that must be the main problem. I assume with out the correct reading the ecu can't fuel correctly. So can this just be that it's dirty or do I need a new one??

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Originally Posted by jimbob

Ok just check air flow meter and under full throttle about 3500rpm, the highest reading I could get was 340!!😱😱 that must be the main problem. I assume with out the correct reading the ecu can't fuel correctly. So can this just be that it's dirty or do I need a new one??

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Well, that's not good .... try cleaning it (when it's COLD!!) and if there's no marked improvement get a new MAF (genuine siemans only - cheapies are rubbish and don't last).

I had a similar problem to yours (could only hit 380-400maxed and about 52 at idle) and fitted a new Siemans MAF and a de-cat pipe and no more problems. This is pretty likely part of the problem ... and tyre size.

I have an extra trans' cooler but don't have the EGT guage yet as with a std tune I'm on the safe side (extra boost/not extra fuel) ...

Pull your MAF plug and try again

Ahhh Fluids beat me to it. Yeah what he said. Either get some contact cleaner and give it a spray or you can pull the plug and see if there's any improvement on the nanocom.

My experience with a BAS remap ,decat, deEGR,20PSI, 255.70x16 etc is that your EGTs will be sky high if you let it run down to 2200 in top under load. I could easily reach 750C if I kept my foot in it, and that was with knowing what the EGT is with a gauge.

I tow 1tonne and this happens with mine, although a lot better with a Serck intercooler although I haven't towed with it yet. I still anticipate I will have to back off and change down.

I third the previous comments that you have to change early down to third manually, wait for lockup and then accelerate. Best torque and best boost is around 2800RPM .
Your MAF low reading could be a problem. Also check that your boost sensor in the manifold is clean and your modulator is working and all hoses to and from it are in place and not split.
Regards Philip A

Great feedback from every one so thank you. I believe it's down on power because of the low air flow readings. Cleaning and unplugging saw no change so a new one is being picked up Monday. I will keep you all posted. 😜👍🏻