Td5 auto disco power??

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Originally Posted by jimbob

Ok just check air flow meter and under full throttle about 3500rpm, the highest reading I could get was 340!!😱😱 that must be the main problem. I assume with out the correct reading the ecu can't fuel correctly. So can this just be that it's dirty or do I need a new one??

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As long as the EGR is removed you should make sure that the low reading is not actually real and there's not some restriction in the intake or exhaust, if the catalyst is still in situ better undo the downpipe and make a short test this way(somewhere to not disturb with the noise) cos low air flow/boost/power can be theresult of clogged cat too. It's a possibility as long as unplugging the MAF made no difference, only if the MAF was completely failed prior of unplugging it should make no difference otherwise the default is very rare to be the same as a low reading MAF

I think I've misunderstood unplugging the maf. I plugged it back in after. I think every one is saying to drive with it unplugged. Whoops my bad. I'll try again tomorrow with it unplugged 👍🏻

I've deleted the cat. I surprose it could be blocked intake??? Or partially blocked.

To rule out the tyres see if you can borrow a standard size set of wheels from someone and start the process of elimination.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimbob

I think I've misunderstood unplugging the maf. I plugged it back in after. I think every one is saying to drive with it unplugged. Whoops my bad. I'll try again tomorrow with it unplugged 👍🏻

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Yes. Unplug it at take it for a spin and see if there's any difference.

I have the same setup but don't tow. I'd say like everyone else to check the air flow through the engine. Intake and exhaust. If you have removed the CAT i'm guessing it is not going to be exhaust. Check the air filter, maybe even replace it they don't cost much. If you truly believe it is not right, perhaps your intercooler hoses are beginning to delaminate, restricting your air flow.

I also believe 0.9 bar is a little low (1.3 is pushing max boost) i'd expect about 1.2 at about 2500 RPM, but i would't adjust your boost on the turbo until you are sure the air flow is correct.

I've been toying with the idea of a 1.4 ratio transfer case for some time, I've bitten the bullet and am now in the process of rebuilding one to put in, effectively making it close to your old Defender but with less throttle response due to the auto, to compensate I've got an Ashcroft TD5 upgrade torque converter coming.

The reason I'm doing all this is because essentially I've experienced what you are speaking of, but while four wheel driving rather than towing. It is the same issue but effects me differently. We are riding on the edge of the vehicles capability, but it is no reason not to check the air flow and perhaps adjust the boost when ready.

I just took it for a spin with the air flow meter disconnected and there was a great difference in light to medium throttle response. On heavy acceleration it was surging very badly but was still going a lot better. Can't wait to get the new sensor in!! 😎

Yeah I won't adjust the boost until air flow sorted. I don't think I will got to a low ratio transfer. I'm sure it would fix the gearing issue but I recon if I can't get it to go the way I expect with out major modification then I might just have to upgrade to something that will do the job a little easier. 😞

Thanks fluids!! The new air flow meter is fitted and it's a different car to drive. I haven't towed with it yet because I'm away at the moment. But I will as soon as I get a chance. Thanks to all that posted. I hope this fixes 90% of the issue.👍🏻