A/C AND HEATER FAN HAS STOPPED WORKING

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Originally Posted by flatpack

Fuse is good as is power to the blower, if it was a "fuse box issue" how could that be. Or is it just a generic answer?

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is that power to the blower with it connected to the circuit or in the unplugged connector?...cos if the blower is unplugged the fact that you see voltage with the multimeter in the connector doesnt mean that the voltage doesnt drop under the blower's load due to a bad contact/dry joint/corrosion/wiring issue... which can be within the fusebox as well

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

is that power to the blower with it connected to the circuit or in the unplugged connector?...cos if the blower is unplugged the fact that you see voltage with the multimeter in the connector doesnt mean that the voltage doesnt drop under the blower's load due to a bad contact/dry joint/corrosion/wiring issue... which can be within the fusebox as well

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Its with the blower disconnected. I am erring towards the fuse box now as when I have a volt meter in the plug and it measures a current, if I then switch on the rear blower the current at the blower reads zero.

Can I get my fuse board repaired?

You can repair it if you find the fault in it

Thanks for your input guys, the fault definitely lies within the fuse board. I took out the fuse for the blower and put a multi meter across the terminals, I got a read of 8.5 volts. Replaced the fuse and turned on the blower and then rechecked the fuse and I had less than 2 volts.

I then took a positive feed directly from the battery and feed it into the feed for the blower harness and everything worked fine.

My next question is, can I take a wire with an inline fuse from my battery to the positive feed as a permanent measure instead of replacing the fuse board?

You can do that if that's what you want but better replace the fusebox cos if it started to fail it can develop a fault in a more important circuit too then you can end up with more serious trouble as no lights or indicators while driving or even immobilised.

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

You can do that if that's what you want but better replace the fusebox cos if it started to fail it can develop a fault in a more important circuit too then you can end up with more serious trouble as no lights or indicators while driving or even immobilised.

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there is a plug two inches from the blower motor that oxidises and then burns out

I have just finished replacing the electrical plug next to the fan motor. On inspection it was found to be badly burnt out and beyond repair!
All is now operational so bring on the tropical summer heat!
Thanks to those for their information!

Cloughy

I too recently had this issue. The fuse was good and registered as a current was there but as soon as the fan was turned on the current dropped. It was a fuse box issue. As a temporary fix I ran a live direct from the battery with an inline 30amp fuse and connected it to the fan. Works mint now and the temporary fix is seemingly a permanent one [biggrin]