Project Log: DIY Rear Drawers and Fridge Slide

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trout1105

I did a breakdown of all the materials that I would need to build a 2 drawer system with a fridge slide and it worked out to be over $1200 and I think that I would have spent a bit more than that eventually ( the drop down slide was about $700 on its own) .
I went with the Titan drawers in the end at $588 delivered including a fridge slide.
I haven't received the drawers yet so I cannot say if they are any good or not yet.
If they are as good as they say they are then I will have saved myself a heap of money, time and effort, If Not then it won't be the first time I have bought something that wasn't up to scratch.

---

Just curious...why Titan over Kings?

Quote:

---

Just curious...why Titan over Kings?

---

The Drawer systems from 4WD Supercentre are Titan

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trout1105

I did a breakdown of all the materials that I would need to build a 2 drawer system with a fridge slide and it worked out to be over $1200 and I think that I would have spent a bit more than that eventually ( the drop down slide was about $700 on its own) .
I went with the Titan drawers in the end at $588 delivered including a fridge slide.
I haven't received the drawers yet so I cannot say if they are any good or not yet.
If they are as good as they say they are then I will have saved myself a heap of money, time and effort, If Not then it won't be the first time I have bought something that wasn't up to scratch.

---

I considered the titan drawers but decided to make my own for two main reasons:
1. I want the fridge as low as possible due to weight and ease of access - I don't like the design with the fridge above the drawer.
2. At 900 mm long the smallest of the titan drawers won't fit in the cargo space with the rear seats in. I wanted the versatility of drawers than can be used with or without the rear seats in the vehicle.

At the end of the project I will do a final costing, but I probably will end up spending $650-$700ish.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trout1105

The Drawer systems from 4WD Supercentre are Titan

---

Gotcha

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ScotchRocks

I considered the titan drawers but decided to make my own for two main reasons:
1. I want the fridge as low as possible due to weight and ease of access - I don't like the design with the fridge above the drawer.
2. At 900 mm long the smallest of the titan drawers won't fit in the cargo space with the rear seats in. I wanted the versatility of drawers than can be used with or without the rear seats in the vehicle.

At the end of the project I will do a final costing, but I probably will end up spending $650-$700ish.

---

Same my fridge is 800mm long and just fits so I will be doing something the same

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$507.63 Total so farConsumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)

Process Update:
11. Spent a solid couple of hours neatening up the edges of all the aluminium plates.
Attachment 123007
12. Got all the mounting plates drilled, de-burred and affixed to the frame.
Attachment 123009Attachment 123008
13. Pre drilled all the holes for the self tappers, then mounted the drawer slides to the mounting plates.
Attachment 123010Attachment 123011

Super happy with the results so far. All the weight is adding up though. Probably 18-ish kg so far. Will be interesting to see what the final weigh in is with all the accoutrements affixed.

Picked up some ply, marine carpet and other bits and pieces for the next steps today.
Next will be the attachments for the tie downs, ply on the top then fridge slide board and drawer inserts last. Hopefully one night this week - but the daylight after work is getting shorter.

Hi,

Sorry coming to this late. Thinking of same for my D4.

Not sure if the tie downs are in the same place but, I was looking at the Driftas draw sets and they have holes in my the sides so you can access the tie down points more easily and not have to sneak your hand down to access the turnbuckles. They also had holes in their floor panel to access wheel winder and under floor storage - not sure if this is appropriate for your model.

Where are you going to attach turnbuckles to on fridge side?

All the best,

Laurie

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Strop

Hi,

Sorry coming to this late. Thinking of same for my D4.

Not sure if the tie downs are in the same place but, I was looking at the Driftas draw sets and they have holes in my the sides so you can access the tie down points more easily and not have to sneak your hand down to access the turnbuckles. They also had holes in their floor panel to access wheel winder and under floor storage - not sure if this is appropriate for your model.

Where are you going to attach turnbuckles to on fridge side?

All the best,

Laurie

---

Hi Laurie,

1. Mounting turnbuckles between frame and factory tie downs will be at the front sides and on the rear of the assembly - difficult to explain in text, there will be some good photos in my next update.
2. No floor panel. Frame on carpet. Don't need access in a D2 (unless fuel pump dies and needs replacing, cover your ears Murphy). For D3/D4 I would either go swing away rear wheel carrier or many people have made a socket extension for the winder that pops up between the drawers. If I was doing this in a D3/D4 I would make the frame and drawers / slide asymmetrical so the winder would sit on one side of the central frame rail.
3. Fridge will be secured by either tiedowns from handle to slider frame or I might remove the feet and use those holes to bolt it to the slide (4 places) which would be very neat and tidy - or both for paranoia!

cheers.

I made a similar unit for my D1, space is at a premium in a D1 so i mad mine stepped at the rear so that it hugged the back of the reat seats/cargo barrier so that my 50ltr waeco would fit with modified handles.
Not enough room for a fridge to sit on top of a drawer system plus fridge access is difficult, fridge plus 2 drawers comes to just below middle seat height with carpeted plywood on top so visibility isnt reduced.

Materials cost (to date):
$145.37 30 m (5 x 6m lengths) 25 mm square tube
$31.63 6 m lipped (flanged) 25 mm square tube
$19.01 24 x 3 way 'Y' connectors (qubelok or cube lock or handyman or whatever brandname you want. Mine came from Ullrich.)
$2.73 4 x 2 way corner connectors
$7.92 8 x 4 way 'Y' connectors
$209.28 3 x Pairs 700 mm 125 kg locking drawer slides
$62.50 1800 x 1200 x 2 mm aluminium sheet remaining from my rear door card project (1200 x 2400 sheet was $79.77)
$19.24 100 x trumpet head metal screws (25 mm)
$6.05 25 x M6 x 40mm bolts and nuts
$3.90 M6 washer pack
$22.00 1200 x 900 x 7 plywood
$3.05 12 mm x 1 m aluminium tube
$532.68 Total so far

Consumables:
$16.93 Pack of 5 sheet metal jigsaw blades

Tools Used (to date):
Tape measure
Sharpie
Cutoff Saw
File
Dead blow hammer (Best tool EVER! Or you can use a less awesome rubber mallet)
Jigsaw
F clamps
Drill and bits
Some wood offcuts for clamping and drilling
Straight edge
Philips screwdriver (or driver bit if you are feeling lazy)
Your preferred grades of sand paper
Hacksaw

14. Measured, trimmed and affixed ply to top.
Attachment 123133Attachment 123134

15. Made spacers from tube for the mounting bolts so that they don't crush the qubelock when tightened (thanks to my future father in-law for the hint) and used some SS bolts I had lying around.
Attachment 123135Attachment 123136

16. Getting closer.
Attachment 123137

I am not happy with the turnbuckle fastening system. They will only just turn when attached, and regardless of spreading the load I feel like they could/would tear through the qubelok. Then again if they get loaded like that, the vehicle will probably be upside down and some damage to the drawer frame will be the least of my worries. Thinking a pair of diagonal ratchet straps over the whole assembly might be a better go. Or a skirt of saddle clips and rope webbing. Unsure. I feel like I am making it more complicated than it needs to be.

Any good suggestions?