Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: Front drive shaft

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mclaren00 View Post
    Only reason for keeping is incase I wanted to lift it as they said aftermarket wouldn't allow it
    Hmm, odd.

    As Damien said, the TW ones allow a greater range of motion, I have a photo somewhere of a TW DC shaft vs a Deefer front shaft and yes, I know the Deefer is only a single cardan joint but the TW DC shaft had a much greater operating angle than the OE shaft (which was binding on the yoke at full droop)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Roselands
    Posts
    14
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It sounds like we all have an old propshaft in the garage waiting to be rebuilt.... one day. Pretty sure if the day ever comes we'll just go buy another. And then we'll have 2 in the garage.. 😂🤣. Just because......... alomg with our old springs and fuel regulators.....

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
    Posts
    10,150
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Including the centring bearing assembly ?

    Most of those need to be pulled apart, greased and reassembled.

    The Tom Woods ones and one or two others are externally greasable.
    Do you still have to remove the T/W shaft to do the centre bearing.
    Why i ask is when i bought my car 4 years ago the f/shaft had been replaced with ? Which can be fully greased but i have to remove it to grease the hidden centre bearing nipple
    This is a trap for new players if they are not aware of that hidden grease nipple

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    Do you still have to remove the T/W shaft to do the centre bearing.
    Why i ask is when i bought my car 4 years ago the f/shaft had been replaced with ? Which can be fully greased but i have to remove it to grease the hidden centre bearing nipple
    This is a trap for new players if they are not aware of that hidden grease nipple
    In the Deefer you pull the floor out !

    Sooo much easier.

    You could probably pick if it's a TW shaft as

    a) it uses 1310 Spicer uni's, not the 1300 size that L/R use

    b) Tom uses a blue coating on the splines

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,070
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Including the centring bearing assembly ?

    Most of those need to be pulled apart, greased and reassembled.

    The Tom Woods ones and one or two others are externally greasable.
    Yes, 3 grease nipples. 2 on front double cardjun & 1 on the rear of the front prop shaft
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
    Posts
    10,150
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    In the Deefer you pull the floor out !

    Sooo much easier.

    You could probably pick if it's a TW shaft as

    a) it uses 1310 Spicer uni's, not the 1300 size that L/R use

    b) Tom uses a blue coating on the splines
    Maybe mine is as it has the blue coating also the unis appear different not that iv`e taken notice .But i still drop the shaft to do that hidden grease nipple

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
    Posts
    10,150
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Yes, 3 grease nipples. 2 on front double cardjun & 1 on the rear of the front prop shaft
    Mine has 3 on the D/C and 1 on the other uni at the other end of the shaft and one on the spline so 5 on the front shaft

  8. #18
    Mr Simon. Guest
    I rebuilt mine with grea sable unis from hardy spicer was pretty easy,centre ball needed a bit of mcguyvering but all good. There is already a hole in the Land Rover shaft behind the centre ball that possibly could be drilled out and tapped to accept a 90 degree grease nipple still have to drop the transfer side of the drive shaft to grease it. I will look into it when I rebuild mine with the gks or whatever the original brand uni were as the HD hardy spicer unis aren't greasing freely and never have even after a heap of stuffing around with them trying to purge grease through them.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Free Again Thanks Dan
    Posts
    10,150
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Simon. View Post
    I rebuilt mine with grea sable unis from hardy spicer was pretty easy,centre ball needed a bit of mcguyvering but all good. There is already a hole in the Land Rover shaft behind the centre ball that possibly could be drilled out and tapped to accept a 90 degree grease nipple still have to drop the transfer side of the drive shaft to grease it. I will look into it when I rebuild mine with the gks or whatever the original brand uni were as the HD hardy spicer unis aren't greasing freely and never have even after a heap of stuffing around with them trying to purge grease through them.
    This is the flush mount grease nipple there is not enough room for a right angle nipple behind the centre bearing.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    IIRC Tom also uses unis with the nipple in a cap and the newer ones use a yellow seal on the caps/trunnion.
    The nipple in the cap rather than the cross makes for a stronger uni as it removes the stress raiser of a drilled and tapped nipple at a point of stress.

    FWIW, and it's been mentioned on here quite a bit but worth repeating, the genuine LR/GKN unis are special.
    They are 1300 Spicer size across the cross, but use a 1310 size trunnion, so are equivalent in strength to a 1310 uni.
    Hardy Spicer can also supply them. Search in The Good Oil for part #'s.
    If you use a standard size 1300 uni you are compromising strength/life.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!