Diff locks and traction control

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Originally Posted by rangieman

So is it too hard to flick a switch must be [bigwhistle],
Really it is harder reaching for the radio mike than it is to flick a locker switch[wink11]

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For me it's not so much about the flicking of a switch ... so much as the potential for soemthing to break or go wrong.

With a locker, you need compressor, air lines, switch relays, etc, etc.
While they are generally reliable, there are more individual parts to go wrong with the entire system to cause the situation where the system stops working.
Cut an airline(easy to do) and no air to locker.. etc, etc kind of things to go wrong

I'm going to go with ATBs front and rear on my D1.
Would love one for centre diff too, but transfer box was recently recoed, and didn't have the time to get an ATB organised.

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Originally Posted by AK83

For me it's not so much about the flicking of a switch ... so much as the potential for soemthing to break or go wrong.

With a locker, you need compressor, air lines, switch relays, etc, etc.
While they are generally reliable, there are more individual parts to go wrong with the entire system to cause the situation where the system stops working.
Cut an airline(easy to do) and no air to locker.. etc, etc kind of things to go wrong

I'm going to go with ATBs front and rear on my D1.
Would love one for centre diff too, but transfer box was recently recoed, and didn't have the time to get an ATB organised.

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As stated personal opinion and pesonal choice[wink11]
Oh and if you worried about stuff braking why drive a rover[bigwhistle]

for sure a personal opinion.

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Originally Posted by rangieman

....
Oh and if you worried about stuff braking why drive a rover[bigwhistle]

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LOL! I stopped worrying about driving breaking rovers after about my 10th!
And I blame my 'ol man for the illness(of driving Rovers)
Started off driving a SIIa.
With us kids getting our licenses he bought us a 2000TC to share(maybe a very early model .. 'pre 65-ish I think) .. and the need to fix stuff became essential.
But for me it was a bonus. As the need to fix something on every outing came about, as my sisters had no clue nor interested in getting hands dirty, so guess who got exclusive use of the 2000TC ;)
In the end he got (them!) a $50 HQ with a 163 or something crappy in it. 3 on the tree, drum brakes all round .. and I'm thinking "this is a joke right" .. so they had exclusive rights to the HQ .. and I the 2000TC.

I think that the reasoning in my above reply is more along the lines of: I don't mind Rover's breaking so much, but stuff that is supposedly less breakable is what I hate when it does break :p

I had a maxi drive in the rear of my 81 RRC and a Quaife torque biasing diff in the front and I found it ideal especially with the front stab bar disconnected.

Even with a locker only in the back, it is pretty difficult to turn sharply in muddy conditions. In the front it would be even MUCH harder. Hairpins climbing on muddy tracks can cause excursions up walls.

I feel that a Torque Biasing diff at each end would be great in a D2, as if a wheel goes off the deck, then the TC will brake the skywards wheel and so preload the diff to send the drive to the side with traction. You need some preload for the diff to work.

If I ever get the money I will fit torque biasing diffs at each end of my D2, as their operation is automatic, they are always engaged unlike in some circumstances where you want to engage diff locks and they don't want to engage until you zig zag a bit. They have a very small effect on the steering of an RRC , and so with a D2 with its ball joint suspension at zero radius, I feel they would be transparent.

Even with only TC a D2 is pretty darn good. I pulled out of the Murray crossing at Tom Groggin one day through wombat holes that put the diagonal wheels about 30CM off the deck and of course muddy and wet. A bit of delay while the discs dried and out she popped. And that was without CDL.
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by land864

Sorry
What's ATB?

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This may help. [ click on the link to the ATB diff for a more detailed explanation]

Ashcroft Transmissions

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Originally Posted by AK83

for sure a personal opinion.



LOL! I stopped worrying about driving breaking rovers after about my 10th!
And I blame my 'ol man for the illness(of driving Rovers)
Started off driving a SIIa.
With us kids getting our licenses he bought us a 2000TC to share(maybe a very early model .. 'pre 65-ish I think) .. and the need to fix stuff became essential.
But for me it was a bonus. As the need to fix something on every outing came about, as my sisters had no clue nor interested in getting hands dirty, so guess who got exclusive use of the 2000TC ;)
In the end he got (them!) a $50 HQ with a 163 or something crappy in it. 3 on the tree, drum brakes all round .. and I'm thinking "this is a joke right" .. so they had exclusive rights to the HQ .. and I the 2000TC.

I think that the reasoning in my above reply is more along the lines of: I don't mind Rover's breaking so much, but stuff that is supposedly less breakable is what I hate when it does break :p

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161, 149 or 183 probably. I had a HQ ute with a very worked motor that had started it's life as a 161... Great vehicle. Rollerised it revved like crazy.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by ozscott

161, 149 or 183 probably. I had a HQ ute with a very worked motor that had started it's life as a 161... Great vehicle. Rollerised it revved like crazy.

Cheers

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Hq had 173 and 202 only. 161 and 186 was from hr

Long time ago... I recall the smaller ones revving a lot better than the larger ones. The 161 o had was put in the HQ originally by my brother. I thought it was a stock item but there you go. I know worked these engines were fantastic and pit up some good kilometres. Cheers

Iirc stroke was the same in all red motors except the 202 and possibly the 173 i can't remember. Bore was where they changed size. 179hp was my pick of the best of the lot

I later went to a blue 202 and bored it to 3.5litre. Sig Erson 3/4 roller rockers, new cast Yella Terra head with a LOT of porting and polishing, stalite inserts, slightly oversize valves with double valve springs, full balance including having the harmonic balancer balanced...and port matching all manifolds etc. Good quality pistons and rings, billeted Procam from the US. Tuned but retained the Varajet carb. Flogged stock 308 and 253's off the line and rolling starts. Likewise turbo VL nissan 6's...Still pulling hard at 6500rpm...with no valve bounce.

Really loved it.VH SLE. Cheers