Thread: D2 TD5 engine immobilised

Thanks Peter for doing that. Can only infer that either my alarm is still active or the immobilisation is still in place.

Probably while Peter was checking his ignition sequence for me I decided to check the voltage of the battery, the one I used in place of what came with the vehicle. It's down to 10.1 volts!! It was around 13 when I put it in.

Got another battery at 13.2v. As soon as I attached the '+' and '-' leads the alarm went off.

I'm back to square one. Can't open the door without the alarm going off.

I just went and checked mine, it has been sitting ,unlocked, windows down for 10-15 minutes with the key in the ignition. The LED was flashing, when I turned the key to pos II it went off. Turning the key off, it didn't come back on. Is there a time delay when the alarm turns on automatically?

IMO you are insisting at the wrong place, first of all dont try every bullsh*t you see on the web like that EKA through the ignition thing, if that worked for someone it means it was some coincidence or simply a matter of luck, insist on the roof receiver cos if you are lucky that's the problem and once you can unlock with the fob you are sorted, as long as you can't remobilise it with EKA or with the fob everything else you do is futile, better download a workshop manual and read the alarm/immobiliser's description and operation mode at least you'll know theoretically what you are dealing with... untill you download your own RAVE start reading from Immobilisation here: Land Rover Workshop Manuals > Discovery II > BODY CONTROL UNIT > DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION > Operation

I think we're entitled to create our own bullsh#it procedures as much as follow them. I'm going to say 'slamming doors may help'.

Had some spare time to play around with these other 'fixes' between supervising a couple of electricians. The hairs on the back of their necks went up when they passed the vehicle.

The previous owner purchase the 3 vol workshop manuals at considerable expense, so I have those. I left them for two days on the dirt under the vehicle, along with some small hand tools etc. Low and behold the termites are just coating the back cover of one book with their tunnels, getting ready to cart them away in small pieces. Your links will prove useful. Will follow up on the sensor.

Originally Posted by johntins

So, a TD5 D2 for less than $2K. Bargain.

Yes, a rural block is where I want to go. SWMBO likes it here. Sigh.

Are these manual? I need one for my daughter.

Now have the roof lining out. What's with the plastic "rivets" that hold the unit to the roof? They seem to have a center that can be pushing in slightly? Can't find a quick reference to these sort of fasteners.

Read several times about possibility of a chaffed wire at the "A" frame. I assume the passenger side. Close to the BCU or more remote? Nice to know where the (hopefully) common rub point is.

Hi workingonit,

However far-fetched it may seem at first glance, I have a suggestion in blue, below.

Cheers, AndrewMilne

Originally Posted by workingonit

Up until 20 minutes ago every time I turned the key in the ignition the alarm would go off and the dash would flash madly. Could only kill the alarm by locking the drivers door.

But now there is no red LED dash light. I can put the key in (no alarm, turn to position II (no alarm) and be presented with what I would consider is a normal dash configuration ie all sensor lights turn on, then after a few seconds some fade out (like trailer system, seat belt).

Unfortunately, when I turn the key past position II to start the engine there is no kick over, but I can hear a relay clicking.

How did I get to this position?

Have you in the recent past had reluctant or sluggish starting?
E.G.: the starter motor not turn, but been able to hear the starter solenoid clicking when you turn the key?
If so, have you considered the possibility there is a second, unrelated problem - namely worn solenoid switch contacts in your starter motor?
That situation might explain why the engine won't turn even though your dash-light configuration now appears normal.

I found an EKA procedure that required you be seated in the vehicle, open and close the door, hold the key in position II for 30 seconds, then enter the numbers by turning the ignition switch back and forth, after each number entered you had to open and close the door.

Before starting this exercise I disconnected the horns because otherwise they would go off the moment I turned the key in the ignition.

I used the original 1999 key fob.

I tried this alternate EKA method several times as I was not sure I was getting it right, using the original code given by the dealer. After a few attempts I realised (without the benefit of connected horns) that maybe the alarm was no longer activating, and that maybe I had a normal dash board at last.

I reconnected the horns. Stuck the key in the ignition and had no issues with the alarm (silent) when I went to position II or beyond (no engine start of course, but evidence of something latching).

I can still do the conventional EKA via the drivers door latch, but again no success with the numbers (single beep failure). I can lock the vehicle by key, but no alarm light appears on the dash. There is no response to the fob lock button.

Wonder if all the door banging by itself has affected a connection somewhere, got the passive recognition going maybe?

What's the consensus? Have I remobilised the BCU?

Originally Posted by workingonit

Now have the roof lining out. What's with the plastic "rivets" that hold the unit to the roof? They seem to have a center that can be pushing in slightly? Can't find a quick reference to these sort of fasteners.

Read several times about possibility of a chaffed wire at the "A" frame. I assume the passenger side. Close to the BCU or more remote? Nice to know where the (hopefully) common rub point is.

For those rivers google out 79086L , better replace first the receiver with a new or known working one as the unit to be 100% ruled out before you start chasing wiring issues cos that can be a nightmare, any way a common problematic point which is involved in the RF receiver's circuit is C0484 which used to suffer from corrosion, (attached), the circuit between the BCU and receiver is through pins 3(PS wire) and pin 12(BN wire), the wire colours are important cos pin disposals can differ, i've seen all kind of oddities in these diagrams

C0484.jpg