Thread: D2 TD5 engine immobilised

Oh dear!!!
I did come into this thread a bit late, didn't realize that you've never actually had the car running.
Nonetheless, pls see comments in blue, below.

Good luck,
AndrewMilne

Originally Posted by workingonit

Thanks Andrew. Have never heard the engine running. Bought it immobilised. Previous owner said it always started first time and problems only seem to have come about after lending it to someone. The previous owner has given up on it. It's puzzling the vehicle does not respond to EKA or the lock key in fob (EKA changed by someone; receiver and/or fob faulty?).

Compared to the other things you have tried & are trying, checking the starter motor contacts is pretty easy.
Getting the starter motor off involves undoing 2 x 13 mm bolts on the underside of the starter and 1 nut (NB: 15 mm) on its upper side.
I replaced the solenoid switch contacts in mine a couple of months ago, the set cost me about $57 from Ashcroft.
Completely got rid of embarrassing and unpredictable failure to start, for about 2 hour's work.
If you do try this, let me tell you that a 6" long 3/8 inch wobble bar is needed for the nut that is on top of the starter motor body. And to remove the 2 bolts First!

Pulling the starter out to check contacts is a waste of time Andrew , this is highly unlikely to be one of the issues , btw if you want to check if its a starter issue you just have to put a test light/ voltmeter to the terminal to starter with key on crank to eliminate.
You might want the rf receiver if you want to use the central locking though, I've probably got a 433 lying about somewhere in the shed , pm me if you want it .

What a nightmare! Feel for you. Hope I never have this problem.
BTW I'm sure it also happens with Toyota's.

Originally Posted by workingonit

....
1. Thanks for the advice and photo Sierrafery. Will get the RF receiver off tomorrow. Has three wires coming out of it - one purple and two black.....
.......
2. Unless Sierrafy says the RF receiver is important in other ways then I doubt I will be pursuing a replacement.

1. You should watch better mate cos any detail is important... one of those black wires is not just black but BN = Black with browN trace coming from that C0484 -12, the other simple Black should be solid earth(check that for continuity to earth)... (RAVE - Electrical library- wire colour codes)

2. as long as you dont want remote central locking or other remote controll/ passive immobiliser on your vehicle and just to use the key in the lock to open the doors the RF receiver is useless provided you disabled the whole remote operation/pssive immobiliser in the BCU and went back with 30 years in the confort and security area

Originally Posted by discorevy

Pulling the starter out to check contacts is a waste of time Andrew , this is highly unlikely to be one of the issues , btw if you want to check if its a starter issue you just have to put a test light/ voltmeter to the terminal to starter with key on crank to eliminate.
You might want the rf receiver if you want to use the central locking though, I've probably got a 433 lying about somewhere in the shed , pm me if you want it .

Hi Discorevy,
I can only agree that using a test light or voltmeter would be a much easier way to check the starter switch contacts, thanks for pointing that out. Can you do that if you are working on your own?
Starter contacts may seem, may even be, unlikely, but workingonit said that he had heard a click but no starter action when he turned the key. That sounds consistent with the possibility, none the less.
Your offer to workingonit of the 433 would be well-received, I imagine.

Thanks discorevy for the offer of loan of 433 receiver. Can't prove it at the moment but my original 1999 fob could potentially be 333MHz. Best keep it at the moment for someone who does not want to live with a car alarm system 30 years in the past (sic Sierrafry). Will get in touch if I change my mind and can use the higher frequency. My main chariot at the moment is a D1 with nearly 600,000km - only lock it (using ancient key tech) when I have groceries in it (weeks shopping is more valuable than the car).

Sierrafry. It was wire by torchlight when I misidentified the wire colours so I don't doubt you're correct (great knowledge base). Thanks for the heads up that the receiver is not essential for anything other than security.

Andrew. I will pass on checking the starter at the moment. Yes, it was odd that I could somehow get to what looked like a normal dash situation position II, and hear a solenoid clicking when going to position III - but my son said he thinks he could hear a solenoid clicking when stilling having alarm issues well before that - so I guess it was still immobilised which ever way you look at it - could be wrong though, and you right, given the vehicle has stood for so long. If I can't get by the security by the 5th then I'll let the mechanics come autologic experts solve that problem, then tell me if there are other problems ie starter. Done a little bit of time on solenoid operated bridges in the starter motors (Toyota) and oxidized contacts in relays (Toyota).

I'm only in modest pain over this so far, as not much financial skin in the game at this stage (so to speak). Potentially a relatively cheap way of getting into computerised car ownership if all goes well after the 5th, and not much pain to dump it if I want to get out (be a bummer to pay $10k for the vehicle and have these issues to add to cost).

Originally Posted by AndrewMilne

Hi Discorevy,
I can only agree that using a test light or voltmeter would be a much easier way to check the starter switch contacts, thanks for pointing that out. Can you do that if you are working on your own?

Mirror at the correct angle, or extended pigtail on the test light / voltmeter or audible voltmeter

Offspring...they can usually tap their phone one handed, so that leaves some dextral resource, provided they're not also eating you out of house and home at the same time as being on the phone.