It's very easy to figure out the working frequency cos it's on the receiver's label
Attachment 128569
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It's very easy to figure out the working frequency cos it's on the receiver's label
Attachment 128569
My bad, 315. I'm using a local independent mechanic who has autologic reader and who has been receiving good reports from the Darwin LRover owners on this forum. At the moment I'm firmly of the opinion that you do not want security issues stopping your vehicle from running in remote areas, get rid of it - I'll see what the mechanic says if and when the vehicle can be run. Thanks again, and will keep the generous offer in mind.
Our staff once had a new other popular brand 4x4 immobilise itself in a remote area. Only the drivers door would open. Situation compounded by having a cargo barrier that could only be accessed from within the boot containing all our work program. Towed to the nearest dealer at great expense - had to incentivised the dealer by threatening a staff member would be sent to break the back window on their premises to get the work stuff.
Sierrafery. Interesting. Mine does not have the sticker as in your example. Nor does it have the metal earth tang in one foot - explains the plastic rivets. The plastic box has the same shape though.
Minor note to start off. I drilled a 2mm hole into the centre of each plastic rivet. Screwed in a 3mm phillips head wood thread screw, then pulled the screw with pliers and out came the centre of the rivet, and off came the RF unit. Plastic rivets are now reuseable (10 cents saved for the nanocom).[thumbsupbig]
Using the black lead neutral:
- black/brown gave 12.83 volts (same as directly across the battery in the engine bay)
- purple/grey gave 12.05 volts (hmmm!)
I got the same results when I used an unpainted rivet as earth through the chassis.
Haven't taken a lead of the battery and interposed the DMM to check current drain. Worth doing? It'll put the vehicle back to honking every time I open the door, but what the heck.
Followed the loom from the RF down the passenger A frame to the BCU area and couldn't see any obvious rubbing, broken earths, oxide etc. Couldn't quite figure out how to pull some of the junctions apart in the footwell despite pressing what appear to be the obvious release tangs. Wiggled lots of things.
Details for the RF receiver:
- Small bar code stuck on one end over both halves of container reads Valeo Electronique 187.9 DF8EX 73648412 XX (barcode stripes) and under stripes YWY100410.
- the plastic halves, 1st half stamped what might be the date of manufacture (or mold number) 99, then 73840287, then 2, the other half date stamp 99, then PA66-GF30, then 73840557, then 3.
- circuit board, solder side INF Valeo 73370827-B, component side what looks like the pi symbol followed by F9920, then 9, then SUP; the plastic junction has : AMP, then 1-963 545-3, then 1-962 754-3, then >PBT-GF15<; solid state capacitors; metal box over circuit, presumably a shield with a hole in it through which you can see a square, presumably the receiver?; under hand lens no obvious poor solder joints.
- can't tell MHz rating and would be surprised and interested if anyone could tell from the above info. Just going to assume 315.
So now I'm going back to reinstall the RF receiver and because you all have your fingers crossed at home it will just fire up [bigrolf]
Some pictures and info.
As said by Sierrafery the label gives the game away, 433MHz for mine https://www.dropbox.com/s/co3qp9m4cg...4.jpg'dl=0Dropbox - 2017-08-27 16.13.54.jpg
You can probe the middle pin (on this version) and reference ground to see the RF decoded data Dropbox - 2017-08-27 16.08.27.mp4
That shows a DC mode DMM and an AC mode probing, the AC is clearer to see if something is happening.
If you have the kit, then you can use a scope Dropbox - 2017-08-27 16.09.36.jpg That is the response to unlock from my fob.
This is a blip on frequency I saw every now and again Dropbox - 2017-08-27 16.11.07.jpg
And here is a bit closer so you can see some of the actual code bits Dropbox - 2017-08-27 16.11.34.jpg
I sat for a bit and didn't see anything else, so that blip might be a 'I am working' blip perhaps. I should have tried one of the other cars.
The number of bits appeared to change as I scanned, still only doing lock or unlock, I don't believe that is the case though, I have a bit of knowledge of these systems and they are fixed (I think 70bit from the manual) rolling code sequences, so it might have been a bit of clock stretch in the fob or receiver making the overall time longer. Just counting and I think there is about 90bits, which would sound about right for preamble and code.
This also means that the code match is being done in the BCU since this is raw data going down.
The part number YWY100410 googles as a 433mhz receiver for discovery 2 and rover 75.
cheers
Steve
Well what do you know! Thanks Rok-Dr.
Thanks Steve. Those Flukes are versatile machines and interesting to see how you can get info out of the circuit.
I pulled a lead off the battery (after disconnecting the horns). Got a reading of 12.6 volts and interestingly the alarm system did not go off. I switched to the unfused 10A side to read current draw, which did set off the alarm system, making readings useless as it cycled between 2 amps and a bit over 7amps.
I think its getting to the point of calling it quits for the moment and waiting until the 5th Sept. We've got grass fires near us at the moment so I need to make some preparations like checking the fire pump works, getting the 1,000 litre container into the vehicle etc. Water bombers were flying over us yesterday to the fire nearby. Hmmm...maybe $10k insurance...push into the grass a bit...[bighmmm]
I thought when you wanted everyone to cross their fingers so you could fire it up it wasn't because you'd pushed it in to the grass a bit[wink11]
360 acres of spear grass/gamber. If it were any other 'grass' I'd be driving a new Range Rover with tinted windows.