Thread: D2 TD5 engine immobilised

I dont know how the prices are down under but in UK there are breakers with 100% positive fedback who are selling BCU with synk'd fob and EKA attached for 150 GBP which IMO is a rapid and troublefree fix way cheaper than what a main dealer would charge... while they might not fix it at all.

Originally Posted by workingonit

.... I guess there is always the chance the mechanism in the drivers door could be faulty, there was some indication in other threads that lack of use of the lock and reliance on fob meant the lock got a bit gunked and was not giving good results when it came time to enter an EKA. And I still have to follow up on Sierrafery's suggestion about earthing, fingers crossed.

I'd say probably nothing wrong with he drivers door key mecahnism, considering you said you repeatedly get successfully failed attempts.

Brothers TD5 immobilised itself one day, he take the time to read EKA code before that point tho .. but we had no idea on how to use it.
Googled it on our phones and found some idiots posting up wrong info.
When you incorrectly input the EKA code, nothing happens! ie. it doesn't successfully beep at you to tell you you failed .. it simply does nothing.
If your door lock was playing up and hence giving false inputs, I'd guess that this would be the same as (me and bro) incorrectly inputting EKA code.

The other thing not yet mentioned(that I saw) is the battery full or being charged all the while that your trying this?

Without turning this into a novel: Went went shopping, TD5 was perfect on the start and trip to supermarket. At the car park now to get home, it beeped funny and immobilised.
No indication that battery was in a mildly low state of charge. Car stated perfectly fine.
I walked home, got my D1, jumper cabled the D2 .. to no avail.
Mucked about with EKA codes for about an hour nothing would work. Finally found the correct procedure to input EKA code .. didn't work!(At this point I seriously thought the car is about to be written off!)
I made the suggestion to brother to go get a new battery. N70ZZ fully charged.
Up to this point the D1 was connected to the D2s battery, but the D1 not running. It had plenty of (dual) battery juice in it.
I disconnected my D1 at that point, we popped in the new battery, inputted correct EKA code procedure, car un-immoblised itself, we were off .. me feeling much more smug in my D1 too tho!

After we got back to his place and had lunch, we then attacked the silly EKA code variables(8's and 13's!!) into manageable values too.

A few days later, I then disabled the immobiliser completely on my D2 project(V8). Also changed EKA to something simple.
I've never had issues with my D2 V8's immobiliser tho , and it's had close to dead flat batteries installed in it, as well as freshly charged batteries, and what not.
After brothers Td5 episode tho, and even tho I disabled the immobiliser I then got a new N70ZZ battery for my D2 as well.

So maybe sierra's comment re earthing is relevant for you too.
Have you checked battery earth points too. Try a known good battery, disconnect it reconnect it again.

Makes no sense to me that I can run a dead flat battery in my D2(admittedly a V8) but the Td5 couldn't cope with a battery that could start the engine!
Unless brothers issue wasn't battery power, but a contact issue. Although on a couple of occasions it did have two random troubles cranking, but then sorted itself.
Note that he still has that old battery, and it's now serving as a spare for camping in a battery box. It does seem to die very quickly tho, so I'm sure(even without proper load testing) that it was stuffed.
He hasn't had any issues with the immobiliser since that day way back in Jan either.

So I'd reckon going with sierra's comment re earthing checks, but check all possibly relevant earth points, battery, BCU, those receivers and/or coils or whatever they are ..

Originally Posted by sierrafery

not too much security risk IMO

No, but very problematic if the new numbers aren't recorded in place of the old....

Johntins, I've asked my son to keep an eye out for you on the Facebook NT Buy and Sell, where he found this one. What's your upper limit...a grand? Dealer in Darwin has one for $5k, and a gumtree backpacker (my guess, as it comes with lots of camping gear, pots pans etc) has one for $6k negotiable.


Sierratory, thanks for the heads up on UK and price. Am speaking to MRAutomotive in Brisbane for a rough price for same (just for comparison); the staffer I was speaking to says he has a D2 and using the shops Autologic has turned off his security system; staffer said you may also have to get matching instrument cluster because otherwise the replacement BCU will set speedo of your original cluster to 999,999kms (but he was 100% sure). Early days.

AK83, we popped a known good battery into the vehicle. The original is still on trickle charge from Saturday and still only 3/4 charged according to the charger. If I understood the previous owner the vehicle has not been driven for the last 9 months because of the immobilisation issue, so maybe the battery is stuffed - the perspex charge view port into the battery seems to be obscured internally with residue, so you don't get to see the 'bullseye'.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Johntins, I've asked my son to keep an eye out for you on the Facebook NT Buy and Sell, where he found this one. What's your upper limit...a grand? Dealer in Darwin has one for $5k, and a gumtree backpacker (my guess, as it comes with lots of camping gear, pots pans etc) has one for $6k negotiable.

I have it on good authority that, if I want to bring home another Land Rover, I'd better be prepared to have to sleep in it.

Mine's lost count, and just accepts there may or may not be something new in the ranks of parked cars. You need a rural block if not already!

Anyway, I've found an easy solution if I can't sort the fob roof receiver...Leigh at Nightcliff Service Centre (aulro recommended for Darwin).

Leigh will see if he can communicate with the BCU/BCM? with his Autologic system. If he can't communicate with it then it is more than likely superlocked.

The only solution if superlocked will be a BCU replacement.

He can do the replacement, any recoding, disable entire security system etc.

Cost for BCU replacement, coding etc, roughly $500 give or take, but no commitment on price until he gets hold of the vehicle. He's flat out with work so booked it for 5th September.

Leigh commented the D2's are getting on, drivers door locks and EKA sensors are wearing and can become unreliable for EKA entry.

Roll on September.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Mine's lost count, and just accepts there may or may not be something new in the ranks of parked cars. You need a rural block if not already!

Anyway, I've found an easy solution if I can't sort the fob roof receiver...Leigh at Nightcliff Service Centre (aulro recommended for Darwin).

Leigh will see if he can communicate with the BCU/BCM? with his Autologic system. If he can't communicate with it then it is more than likely superlocked.

The only solution if superlocked will be a BCU replacement.

He can do the replacement, any recoding, disable entire security system etc.

Cost for BCU replacement, coding etc, roughly $500 give or take, but no commitment on price until he gets hold of the vehicle. He's flat out with work so booked it for 5th September.

Leigh commented the D2's are getting on, drivers door locks and EKA sensors are wearing and can become unreliable for EKA entry.

Roll on September.

So, a TD5 D2 for less than $2K. Bargain.

Yes, a rural block is where I want to go. SWMBO likes it here. Sigh.

Originally Posted by workingonit

... the staffer I was speaking to says he has a D2 and using the shops Autologic has turned off his security system; staffer said you may also have to get matching instrument cluster because otherwise the replacement BCU will set speedo of your original cluster to 999,999kms (but he was 100% sure). ...

You can disable the immobiliser with the proper tester(Autologic is one of them) but not as long as it's immobilised like your's, that instrument cluster to 999,999 thing IMO is boll*cks, the only necessary thing is to disable the odometer error warning and avoid the "synk odometer to BCU" (or vice versa) settings which btw would only increment the odometer reading to the one stored in the BCU if that's higher

if you get a replacement BCU you'll have to plug in a tester(nanocom or similar) to make the engine ECU learn the security code and addapt BCU settings to the vehicle's equipment(SLS, ACE, manual/auto, electric seats, sunroofs, etc), synk fobs and choose optional confort or alarm settings cos BCUs are fully programmable, that's all