Thread: D2 TD5 engine immobilised

I did wonder if I just happened to do it at the right rate and looking over at the right time for the standard flash to be what I was seeing.

The RF receiver is in front of the rear sunroof (according to Rave), presumably even if no sunroof It has a power and serial data line at 1000baud, that's pretty slow so a DMM with bar will show the bits flowing past if you probe it.
I'd take off the headling rear plastic doofer and probe the serial line (after checking earth and power) while blipping each of the fobs. No serial signal and it points to duff sender since you have a few keys. I would assume that the receiver decodes and sends the 70bit code down to the bcu for the heavy lifting of checking if the code is right. It also sends the sls plip data down, so it also makes me wonder if you should see a bit traffic from any key in the right frequency and modulation.
If you sort the RF side out everything else will fall into place.

Thanks Steve.

I started to take the roof liner out yesterday, but have only got as far as pulling the little bit of plastic trim at the top of the rear barn door frame - many interruptions - and too much time on here

I have two keys with fobs, but only one is an original dated 1999. The other was purchased by the previous owner dated 2015, who by the sounds of it did not get it sychronised (if that is necessary).

The key dated 1999 will probably be 315 MHz and the keys from 2000 on are 433 MHz , you can access the receiver by removing the lhr grab handle and a few other bits( its been a while) and pulling the roof lining down just far enough to feel around for the receiver , swap it out for a 433mhz and try programming new keys.

Steve, so a digital multimeter without bar function is not suitable? Just have regular voltage, amps, transistor and diode modes.

Will just persist with the 1999 fob at the moment if there is a Hertz difference in later years.

Have had a look at wires at 'A' frame/ chassis point on the drivers side, apparently prone to chaffing. They seem well protected by sleaving.

I intend to check earth in receiver and fuse box in passenger? footwell that can, it seems, corrode a bit and cause issues. Beyond that I will probably wait for 5th September to roll around.

You won't be able to unlock the doors by pulling on the buttons , push the unlock switch on the dash above the HVAC and see if they unlock , also try resetting the cut out switch on the passengers side firewall, not expecting this will work but stranger things happen

Have pressed the fuel cut off button a few times. Will try and find the door unlock switch tomorrow.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Steve, so a digital multimeter without bar function is not suitable? Just have regular voltage, amps, transistor and diode modes.

Will just persist with the 1999 fob at the moment if there is a Hertz difference in later years.

Have had a look at wires at 'A' frame/ chassis point on the drivers side, apparently prone to chaffing. They seem well protected by sleaving.

I intend to check earth in receiver and fuse box in passenger? footwell that can, it seems, corrode a bit and cause issues. Beyond that I will probably wait for 5th September to roll around.

The bar bit makes it a lot easier to see but a standard one can be used - I went searching for a vid to show this and couldn't find it - then came to look for something for work and found this, which is exactly what I'm after! This video Air Conditioner Communication testing using the Refco tool - YouTube shows the serial data blipping on the meter.

Up until 20 minutes ago every time I turned the key in the ignition the alarm would go off and the dash would flash madly. Could only kill the alarm by locking the drivers door.

But now there is no red LED dash light. I can put the key in (no alarm, turn to position II (no alarm) and be presented with what I would consider is a normal dash configuration ie all sensor lights turn on, then after a few seconds some fade out (like trailer system, seat belt).

Unfortunately, when I turn the key past position II to start the engine there is no kick over, but I can hear a relay clicking.

How did I get to this position?

I found an EKA procedure that required you be seated in the vehicle, open and close the door, hold the key in position II for 30 seconds, then enter the numbers by turning the ignition switch back and forth, after each number entered you had to open and close the door.

Before starting this exercise I disconnected the horns because otherwise they would go off the moment I turned the key in the ignition.

I used the original 1999 key fob.

I tried this alternate EKA method several times as I was not sure I was getting it right, using the original code given by the dealer. After a few attempts I realised (without the benefit of connected horns) that maybe the alarm was no longer activating, and that maybe I had a normal dash board at last.

I reconnected the horns. Stuck the key in the ignition and had no issues with the alarm (silent) when I went to position II or beyond (no engine start of course, but evidence of something latching).

I can still do the conventional EKA via the drivers door latch, but again no success with the numbers (single beep failure). I can lock the vehicle by key, but no alarm light appears on the dash. There is no response to the fob lock button.

Wonder if all the door banging by itself has affected a connection somewhere, got the passive recognition going maybe?

What's the consensus? Have I remobilised the BCU?