Time to put away the brick and screwdriver?

**Leo109** · 20th August 2017, 11:09 AM

Hi All,

Well after resisting for a decade or more, we've purchased a replacement for our beloved Daphne Discovery (1997, Series 1A, 300Tdi). She's over 20 years old now and has done 406,000km - and lots of annoying little niggles keep happening lately. So we've gone ultra-modern and bought a 2003 Discovery D2A Td5, complete with new-fangled electronically-controlled injection - and even one of them automatic gearbox thingos!

So, I now have a lot to learn. And that will probably involving putting aside the standard 300Tdi tool kit - half a house brick and a screwdriver - and acquiring a lot of new skills.

I know 'search' is my friend and 'search' and I have been spending quite a bit of time together already. Have so far learned about the converter lock-up behaviour of the auto box. (In fact, we're not complete Luddites in this regard. We did tow our first small caravan with our then '92 Toyota Cressida (4-speed Jatco) and were careful to keep it in lock-up (generally 3rd, unless downgrade or strong tailwind). Also fitted an aftermarket trans cooler and temp gauge to the fluid circuit. Once hit 130 C up the range near Dorrigo. We pulled over for a rest...)

Also just found a thread from a few years ago that explains that the Smartbar off Daphne I can be fitted to with minimal effort to Daphne II. Don't want to re-start the plastic Vs metal bar debate. Suffice to say we've been very happy with the Smartbar for many years.

But now I need to decide on what other things I need to do to our 'new' vehicle. It's an MY03 with 148,000km, full service history and, AFAIK, still factory standard. Being a MY03, am I right to assume the oil pump gear should not be an issue? Any other items I should inspect and/or remove/replace/modify as a priority?

It still has EGR fitted. Scrap it? Other 'favourite' issues with the Td5 seem to include dirty MAF sensors, exhaust manifold studs, the fuel pressure regulator block, fuel pump, and oil or breaks in the injector wiring loom. Any of these I should look at with urgency if the vehicle seems to be running OK?

Needless to say, an EGT gauge will be fitted ASAP and another priority is a Milford cargo barrier (anyone got one for sale?)

Another thing that seems be be required for an owner/maintainer of one of these vehicle is some sort of OBDII scan tool. What's regarded as the minimum that's useful and what's the best to have? Approx costs? Other essential tools for a Td5 home maintainer? Injector remover etc.??

All (polite) suggestions appreciated.

**bblaze** · 20th August 2017, 11:21 AM

replace the coolant flex hose under the turbo, cost me an engine. For a scan tool check Nanacom, see group buy
cheers
blaze
ps keep the brick

**bsperka** · 20th August 2017, 11:24 AM

As its a TD5 you will need a Nanocom or similar. The TD5 isn't OBD compliant. The plug is the same shape and somethings can be reset with a standard OBD 2 tool.

**Tins** · 20th August 2017, 11:31 AM

My two bob's worth is that I don't believe it is EVER safe to assume anything about that oil pump bolt. That would be my very first job on ANY TD5 car I bought.

Scan tool? Many here are happy with the Nanocom. Others have different prefs, but the Nanocom does pretty much all you need. There are often group buys on here, or you can start one yourself. Can't remember what I paid, about $450 I think.

Get the auto properly serviced. Do you tow? If so I'd recommend an upgraded trans cooler. In fact, I'd recommend one even if you don't tow.

Good luck with it.

**Tins** · 20th August 2017, 11:32 AM

Originally Posted by bblaze

ps keep the brick

**Leo109** · 20th August 2017, 12:43 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

My two bob's worth is that I don't believe it is EVER safe to assume anything about that oil pump bolt. That would be my very first job on ANY TD5 car I bought.

I thought the issue was that early builds didn't have thread locker on the bolt and that this was 'fixed' after a relatively short time? Did it affect later build Td5s as well?

In any case, how big a job?

**whitey56** · 20th August 2017, 05:15 PM

I have a 2003 also, if your sump isn't leaking oil i wouldn't worrying to much about the OP bolt, I did mine and it was still tight after 270,000ks at least i have a new sump gasket now.
Seeing your wagon has only 150,000 on it not a lot of bits are ready to fail but will need checking like your tailshafts, belt pulleys, engine mounts, radiator, oil and PS hoses and the others you have mentioned.
Start getting or making the special tools needed now before you need them, like the viscous hub spanners, a 3/8th drive metric socket set with long extensions is a must on these TD5's.
And check all the oil levels yourself, mine had documents the showed it was regularly serviced but there was only 1 litre of oil in the transfer box with just the minor oil leaks they get.
Hope this helps.

**bsperka** · 20th August 2017, 06:11 PM

Check the fuel pressure regulator hose to the engine block near the engine block. Hose gets brittle due to age and heat soak.

**Jazzman** · 20th August 2017, 08:26 PM

I'm not sure an EGT gauge is necessary if you are NOT going to chip or remap it. Being that it is a D2a I wouldn't stress about the oil pump bolt either. I rebuilt my TD5 2004 at 270,000 kms and it was fine.

My advice would be to maintain and not do it on the cheap the following:

Auto - Get it serviced and keep it serviced every 50,000 kms by the time it gets to 250,000 kms it will be getting tired.

Front prop shaft - These have a double uni joint with a centre bearing. If your D2 does NOT have a suspension lift and you are not planning on fitting one it that is great news for the shaft uni's, but keep it greased. The centre bearing is not serviceable, if you ever hear a squeak sound like a wheel bearing is going have the shaft checked out, if it lets go it will smash the bell housing to bits.

Air filter - Make sure you always purchase a good air filter, one with a supporting rib down the centre, MANN or Mahle are both excellent choices. The airbox design in notorious for not sealing well, but a good filter that doesn't droop in the middle will help.

To answer your question about the sensor cleaning. I'd probably still pull out the MAP sensor on the top middle of the inlet manifold and clean it. But everything else leave it alone if it is still working.

I'm assuming you tow a caravan with it? If so that would normally mean you travel a bit. The super electric TD5 is excellent when it is happy, but when unhappy it can be a show stopper, for this reason getting a Nanocom is a great idea, not only does it help fault find but it also clears errors that put the car into limp mode. This is a handy feature if you are in the middle of no where and it happens.

**Tins** · 20th August 2017, 08:33 PM

Originally Posted by Leo109

I thought the issue was that early builds didn't have thread locker on the bolt and that this was 'fixed' after a relatively short time? Did it affect later build Td5s as well?

In any case, how big a job?

It's a simple job. Seriously, do you trust a blog for your sources on something as drastic as the oil pump bolt can be?? A TD5 engine is an expensive bit of kit, as opposed to a gasket, some Loktite and some time. It is a no brainer in my view. Just do it, and then you are sure. The alternative is unthinkable.

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