Thread: New to me D2 V8, what to service/change

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Check health of and grease prop shaft unis and double cardan joint. Known failure point.

All hubs are sealed bearings.

Front axle are standard ball/ cage CV.

Would not change leads unless misfiring. Coil packs are in **** of a spot. Suggest relocating when time comes to change.

I'd service the tranny.

Good idea to change thermostat. Read and adhere to coolant bleed procedure to avoid air pockets - trickle sound in heater box lets you know air remains in the system.

Don't know about freight costs to NZ but I also recommend Roverlord for parts.

Enjoy - I love mine.

Originally Posted by ballbag

Check health of and grease prop shaft unis and double cardan joint. Known failure point.

All hubs are sealed bearings.

Front axle are standard ball/ cage CV.

Would not change leads unless misfiring. Coil packs are in **** of a spot. Suggest relocating when time comes to change.

I'd service the tranny.

Good idea to change thermostat. Read and adhere to coolant bleed procedure to avoid air pockets - trickle sound in heater box lets you know air remains in the system.

Don't know about freight costs to NZ but I also recommend Roverlord for parts.

Enjoy - I love mine.

Thanks, I'll check out Roverlord, I usually import straight from the UK but I'll see what the shipping prices are like.

Glad to hear the HT leads don't need replacing. Would you recommend replacing the spark plugs?
They seem to come standard as part of a service kit, but I don't see them listed an item on the Landrover service schedule.

I've checked for play in the wheel bearings and they seem all ok, you said they are sealed bearings, does that mean that they are non-serviceable?
I have a horrible high pitch screeching noise on idle which goes away after a little bit of throttle, a bit of research suggests it may be the Idle control valve needs cleaning?
Does that sound right?

Other than the screeching noise and a leaky sunroof it's an awesome vehicle, great to drive and heaps of go!
Much more relaxing to drive than my sister in laws manual TD5, but sadly doesn't have the same fuel economy, perhaps I'll need one of each

Originally Posted by beetroot

.....
I'm also looking at a code reader of some sort, I see a lot of folk using the Nanocom reader, but was thinking of a cheap bluetooth to your phone type one just to get me started?
....

I guess it'll work, but nothing like the nanocom will, and after you experience your first random electronic failure, you'll wish you had the nanocom from day one.

I have a cheapie Bt Chinese unit(had for a previous car) and use Torque app to watch some instruments, and it works on the D2 v8, showing temps and stuff like that, can clear annoying codes too.
But! if you get stuck with a random immobilsation problem at a carpark, with a boot full of shopping, on a hot day, with your siblings blood pressure rising quickly .. you'll wish you had that nanocom like you always said you were going to get!
If this sounds like it happened to me, it did(n't) .. it happened to my brother, with me being stuck there(in the shopping centre car park). Luckily he had the foresight to get his EKA code before it immobilised itself, but it was still a PITA all round. Turned out that the battery was just on it's last legs, as the change to a new battery seems to have sorted it out.
Next day I used the nanocom to disable the immobiliser on my D2(v8) .. I don't like that kind of "sheet!" happening to me in the middle of nowhere.

Originally Posted by beetroot

....
I have a horrible high pitch screeching noise on idle which goes away after a little bit of throttle, a bit of research suggests it may be the Idle control valve needs cleaning?
Does that sound right?
....

serpentine belt type screech?
Check your belt tensioner. It's down near low on the RHS, near the thermostat. Use a 15mm socket on a long bar(for ease) on the idler wheel/pulley, and move it about a bit. clockwise movement(tightening the bolt) should release tension.
It should spring back immediately if you release it. If it returns to it's tensioned position with a smooth 'hydraulic' like movement .. it's shot!

Q - Should I service the Auto gear box, or is it best to leave it alone if it's working well - UQ

If it is the same as the Classic Rangies auto transmission - I think it is? - my view is to service it. The internal filter will be clogged with that many kms under its belt.

Originally Posted by AK83

I guess it'll work, but nothing like the nanocom will, and after you experience your first random electronic failure, you'll wish you had the nanocom from day one.

I have a cheapie Bt Chinese unit(had for a previous car) and use Torque app to watch some instruments, and it works on the D2 v8, showing temps and stuff like that, can clear annoying codes too.
But! if you get stuck with a random immobilsation problem at a carpark, with a boot full of shopping, on a hot day, with your siblings blood pressure rising quickly .. you'll wish you had that nanocom like you always said you were going to get!
If this sounds like it happened to me, it did(n't) .. it happened to my brother, with me being stuck there(in the shopping centre car park). Luckily he had the foresight to get his EKA code before it immobilised itself, but it was still a PITA all round. Turned out that the battery was just on it's last legs, as the change to a new battery seems to have sorted it out.
Next day I used the nanocom to disable the immobiliser on my D2(v8) .. I don't like that kind of "sheet!" happening to me in the middle of nowhere.



serpentine belt type screech?
Check your belt tensioner. It's down near low on the RHS, near the thermostat. Use a 15mm socket on a long bar(for ease) on the idler wheel/pulley, and move it about a bit. clockwise movement(tightening the bolt) should release tension.
It should spring back immediately if you release it. If it returns to it's tensioned position with a smooth 'hydraulic' like movement .. it's shot!

I need to get my EKA code, have checked the manual and it's not in there and tried my local Landrover dealer, but they said they couldn't find it.
I'm a little paranoid about not having it as I have a Rover car which the EKA code has been a life saver on multiple occasions!

The screech is coming from near the throttle body somewhere, it's very high pitched and annoyingly loud, kinda like a boiling kettle.
I'm certain it isn't coming from the belt or front of the engine anywhere.
I've done a lot of reading online and the Idle Air Control valve is my main suspect at the moment, but a few cases of a vacuum leak or a leaking gasket has caused the issue.

I'll try cleaning the IAC valve and check the vacuum line in the area.
Need to check the inlet manifold bolts also, as appear to come loose and can have similar symptoms.

Hi

enjoy your d2 v8
they are great 4wd

dont worry about the thermostat yet, do it when your hoses need doing, and change them all.
serp belt if it looks bad otherwise leave it as per scheduled
plugs and leads are usually good, but if it starts to miss change em, ht leads are a pain to change.
hubs don't have oil like d1. Scrap that off the list.

scan gauge is good and can be used to read non standard codes.

enjoy it.