What to expect when replacing TD5 head gasket

A no of years back I did the same had an AMC head installed with Steel Dowels to discover that within 18 months or so I had a leaking head gasket.
There was no real conclusion at the time as to why it happened but it was suspected that the head bolts that were used were sub standard.
Same head still going strong today without being skimmed after re installation.

If you are running OAT Coolant what rate are you running it at I usually run it at about 37% not the 50% they suggest
This stuff will leak out of anything at the higher concentration

Ps gas sniffer tests don't always work with a TD5 because they wont be leaking at idle only under pressure (read up hill under full boost and load)

[QUOTE=akula;2714873]I am not sure I follow the method of testing the pump. In my car the expansion tank bleeder is fed by a small (non original) hose that runs of the top of the radiator on passenger side.

Yep I should have added that bleeder should be a solid stream at idle ( seen with expansion tank cap removed) also if your heater is working well you can eliminate water pump failure ( I have seen water pump with virtually no impeller blades left)

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Originally Posted by djam1

A no of years back I did the same had an AMC head installed with Steel Dowels to discover that within 18 months or so I had a leaking head gasket.
There was no real conclusion at the time as to why it happened but it was suspected that the head bolts that were used were sub standard.
Same head still going strong today without being skimmed after re installation.

If you are running OAT Coolant what rate are you running it at I usually run it at about 37% not the 50% they suggest
This stuff will leak out of anything at the higher concentration

Ps gas sniffer tests don't always work with a TD5 because they wont be leaking at idle only under pressure (read up hill under full boost and load)

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This ^^ , also seen it when head bolts were reused

Having gone through this identical problem twice, different vehicles, I'll bet on the head gasket.

The bolts are done up to (I think) 48'lbs tension then 90 deg, 180 deg again then 45 deg (315 degrees altogether after hitting the tension wrench). The directions come with the gasket set. Do not reuse the head bolts but I reused all other bolts, against Raves recommendation!

I can't read the tension that that is, I screwed my tension wrench up to max and it just gave completely. In other words they are flaming tight, I could barely pull them to tension, did the last dude perhaps forget one sequence of tightening or not be able to do he job.

Bight the bullet, it really is not a drama if you are reasonably competent at swinging spanners. There are special tools but you can get around them with a bit of care.

The back two head bolts foul on the plenum chamber, tilting the head up from the back will allow clearance.

Plenty of help on this forum to walk you through the process if need be.

Oh, and the water pump, bleed screw out, give the motor a rev and coolant should hit the bonnet easily.

Regards

Mike

Does anyone have any recommendations on vendors who sell head gasket/head change kit with all OEM or genuine parts?

In my googling I've found kits can contain Bearmach or Britpart parts, which I am not so keen on using given the cost and importance of the repair.

Anyone had any experience with VRS head gaskets (vs OEM Elring)?

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Originally Posted by akula

Does anyone have any recommendations on vendors who sell head gasket/head change kit with all OEM or genuine parts?

In my googling I've found kits can contain Bearmach or Britpart parts, which I am not so keen on using given the cost and importance of the repair.

Anyone had any experience with VRS head gaskets (vs OEM Elring)?

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Ask Roverlord (Mario and Heather) on here - best thing since sliced bread

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Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Ask Roverlord (Mario and Heather) on here - best thing since sliced bread

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Good call and done - parts on way.

Head gasket replaced. It had blown between 2x cylinders and to the cooling system.
The AMC head lives another day after reskimmed and tested for hardness.
I am getting used to new coolant temp (Nanocom) ranges 88-93c - seems to average 89.4c when unladen on undulating terrain at ~100kmh.
Seems to be a little hot for what it is doing and I am wondering if the radiator needs some attention now.

So I learnt something today that was unexpected. When you take your leaking engine head to a reconditioner, and they tell you that the head is very straight, no warp, that's a bad thing.

Because it means the problem is something else. Like the tiny cracks in the head where the injector sits. Advice is that if that isn't the cause of the leaks, it won't be long before they are leaking, and if they're not the cause of the leak, there are going to be cracks elsewhere.

I'm hoping someone can give me some alternate advice here, but when a tradesman tells you not to go ahead a job for which they would normally be handsomely paid, you should take that advice seriously.

Looking at some of the prices for new/reconditioned heads, they cost more than the car is worth (written off due to severe hail damage), so unless someone is able to provide a compelling reason not too, then it's either off to the wreckers, or put back as is and sold as is (and I will make it clear what the likely problems are to any potential purchaser). It wasn't undriveable, but wasn't up to the task of towing a big van any more, which was the main reason for owning it.

The only other possibility is that it was leaking gas into the cooling system because the head had moved from crappy plastic dowels. I don't know how likely that is.

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Originally Posted by Pinelli

The only other possibility is that it was leaking gas into the cooling system because the head had moved from crappy plastic dowels. I don't know how likely that is.

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very likely if the dowels were cactus

The dowels were indeed cactus. And I now know the head is straight.

So may be worth stitching back together? Even if just to sell it as a working car?