EKA Code and service intervals.

I needed to get my EKA last year and couldn't find it anywhere.

However, Austral Land Rover were happy enough to get me the EKA code from the VIN when I called them. They were quite helpful and didn't want to charge me for this info unlike the main dealers in Melbourne and Sydney.

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

Hi,1. Bearmach is most probably low quality chinese sh*T
2. I'd replace the autobox oil once, drive it one day and replace again + the filter too
3. IMO a good 5W40 dedicated for PD/EUI engines is the best for a Td5 regardless of ambient temps

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1. That's unfortunate. I thought Bluebox Parts were dodgy but Bearmach were OK.
2. So, filter after the last 'dilution' change?
3. Sorry, but I don't understand the connection between electronic unit injectors (if that's what you meant by EUI?) and oil specs? Wotz "PD" please?

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Originally Posted by Leo109

3. Sorry, but I don't understand the connection between electronic unit injectors (if that's what you meant by EUI?) and oil specs? Wotz "PD" please?

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There are oils especially engineered(mentioned in the specs) for PD(pumpe duse)/EUI engines cos that's what the Td5 is

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Originally Posted by rick130

Air cleaner element is an issue, most don't seal properly.
OE Genuine or Mann-Hummel. At one point the Genuine ones were an issue, and that was from a dealer! but whoever is supplying ATM seem to be OK.
Centrifugal filter= OE Genuine or Mann-Hummel
Full flow filter probably doesn't matter that much, but Genuine, Mann, Mahhle, Sogefi/Coopers (not Australian Cooper) take your pick.

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So, Rick, what's the issue with air filter elements? The airbox/filter design seems very similar to that of the 300Tdi Discoveries. (Although about 10mm shorter along the long side. I should have given myself an upper cut the instant I entertained the thought that the filters of the 300Tdi and Td5 might be the same...).

I've never had a problem with the 300Tdi filters. The Ryco element in the Td5 seems to fit well enough around the edges of the airbox and be firmly clamped when the lid goes on. The new Bearmach element has a thin stiffening strip of plastic material across the top of the element, along the long axis. Is this a good thing?

Any more thoughts on whether to put the new auto trans filter in after the first 'dilution' change, or after the last (third or fourth) dilution change?

The Ryco element is a touch small and lets dust past, as evidenced by the fine talc like stuff on the MAF and downstream.

The Mann and Genuine filters fit quite a bit more tightly in the air box.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

The Ryco element is a touch small and lets dust past, as evidenced by the fine talc like stuff on the MAF and downstream.

The Mann and Genuine filters fit quite a bit more tightly in the air box.

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Thanks for the details. I'll have to check the MAF and duct for signs of leakage.

The problem, if you have to rely on internet/mail order for your supplies, is you often don't have a lot of control of make of filter the suppliers send you.

Ian, the Genuine and Mann filters are a number of mm wider/longer so squeeze into the airbox more tightly.
It's really obvious when they are side by side or you run a tape over them.

[edit] and I'm doing the auto filter change second to last or last fluid change too. ;)

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Originally Posted by sam_d

However, Austral Land Rover were happy enough to get me the EKA code from the VIN when I called them. They were quite helpful and didn't want to charge me for this info unlike the main dealers in Melbourne and Sydney.

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Hi Sam,

I contacted my closest LR dealer (Toowoomba Jaguar Land Rover) by email yesterday. Late in the arvo, spoke to the Service Supervisor and gave him the VIN and current rego but the system apparently said something like "code not accessible". (With hindsight, I'd think that was probably because the VIN and rego didn't align with the LRA records from when the vehicle was first registered in Sydney 14 years ago.)

Later, the Customer Service Mgr phoned me and asked me to send a copy of our current Qld Registration Certificate. Sent that by email this morning and - Bingo! - less than half an hour later, the EKA code arrived. Just to keep me on my toes, the code was in hexadecimal notation (numbers 10 to 15 represented by the letters A to F respectively). The CS Mgr confirmed my decoding and couldn't have been more helpful.

I haven't had many good words to say about LR Dealers since our very satisfactory encounter with Suttons in Alice Springs in 2003/4 but, to give credit where credit is due, I couldn't have asked for more helpful service than I received from John at Toowoomba JLR.

By the way, now having what should be the correct EKA, how do I check it?

If I enter the EKA on a non-immobilised vehicle, will anything nasty happen? And, if I enter an incorrect code, due to a typo or my own hamfistedness, will I then be in a world of hurt with a now thoroughly immobilised vehicle?

Or should i just wait until I get a Nanacom to check it that way?

Nothing nasty will happen , at least you will know how to do it if you have to, if you are going to keep the car , when you get your nanocom , you can change it to an easy code. Just make sure you know what it is and pass it on to the next owner if you do sell.