Thread: EKA Code and service intervals.

Hi
Welcome to D2 ownership!!

EKA code can be read out from body control unit (BCU) with Nanocom or similar, check in here Members with Diagnostic Equipment map (updated 1/2015)

Members with Diagnostic Equipment map (updated 1/2015)
for someone close that may lend a hand??
I read you can also get EKA code from the stealers after supplying vin number?? But read from BCU to be 100% on the exact code

You'll also need this
1 - Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds.

An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.

2 - Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

3 - Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

4 - Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

5 - Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once. Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.

6 - Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.

Then, before opening the door, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated. During the 5 minute wait for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument pack continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds).
DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE CAR until the full delay period has elapsed.

When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED stops flashing. Immediately open the door, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II. If the ignition switch is not turned to position II within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is automatically immobilised again.

The EKA code will not be recognised if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.

In some system configurations a successful EKA code entry is indicated by the audible warning device pulsing twice for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The theft deterrent LED is switched on for 1 second, all doors emobilised allowing the engine to start.

If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to a maximum of 10 attempts to enter the code is possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further codes to be entered for a period of 10 minutes.

Re Servicing yes for 10000km
Best to get a copy of RAVE cd from the shop on here and that will tell you what needs servicing etc and repairs/maintenance instructions

No dip stick on auto and again detailed instructions in RAVE

It's a start with info if you can let use know km, condition, if you're doing the servicing??

We can offer more details etc

Cheers Lemo

There is an alan keyed plug on the front of the trans sump.

Run the vehicle to get the trans fluid warm but don't burn yourself, remove the plug described and the fluid should be at the bottom level of the plug.

This is also the filler plug.

If you have (you should) any doubts about the level and condition of the trans fluid get a service kit (sump gasket and filter, no adjustments to be made) and change the fluid.

If the old fluid is clean, could be pink or clear and there are no bits in the sump reassemble and fill. You can only change about 1/3 of the fluid at a time so I change trans fluid every 20,000k or every other service to ensure longevity.

If the trans fluid smells burnt or looks dark but the changes and drive are OK I would suggest just dropping the trans oil every service (just undo the drain plug in the bottom of the sump and let the fluid run out) until you have it retaining it's clear or pink state. Don'f forget to put it back in, there is an old story that the book said drain the first oil from a motor at 600 miles. The 600 miles came up so the driver pulled over and duly drained the oil, got back in and drove off!!!!!!!!

Most of the transmission fluid is in the torque converter and that is why you need to frequently change a small portion.

Burnt oil is a sign of clutches burning out and you are heading for a rebuild, mine is being rebuilt at the moment, just under four grand but there were no outward signs of a problem. I just wanted it to be in good nick before long trips that I am about to take towing a 20' caravan.

Cheers and happy motoring.

Mike

Thanks for the info Gents.

Lemo, thank you for taking the time to send the detailed EKA procedure. I should have said, the Security Card has the procedure on it - just no code!

Thanks Mike for the heads-up on the auto too. (I haven't owned an auto for the last 16 years now.) And your 'hint' about the drain plug isn't a silly as it sounds. I still cringe when I remember the time I started pouring new oil into the 300Tdi, only to shortly after notice a pool of lovely clean RX Super creeping towards my toes...

My DIIA RAVE arrived in Friday. Going to pop it into the laptop shortly and spend some time on a little light reading.

Liking the 'new' DII so far - very nice to drive and the brakes feel so much better than I've ever been able to get the Daphne I's pedal.

PS: Anyone understand what those decimal numbers in the service interval table mean?

Originally Posted by nismine01

There is an alan keyed plug on the front of the trans sump.

Run the vehicle to get the trans fluid warm but don't burn yourself, remove the plug described and the fluid should be at the bottom level of the plug.

This is also the filler plug.

If you have (you should) any doubts about the level and condition of the trans fluid get a service kit (sump gasket and filter, no adjustments to be made) and change the fluid.

If the old fluid is clean, could be pink or clear and there are no bits in the sump reassemble and fill. You can only change about 1/3 of the fluid at a time so I change trans fluid every 20,000k or every other service to ensure longevity.

If the trans fluid smells burnt or looks dark but the changes and drive are OK I would suggest just dropping the trans oil every service (just undo the drain plug in the bottom of the sump and let the fluid run out) until you have it retaining it's clear or pink state. Don'f forget to put it back in, there is an old story that the book said drain the first oil from a motor at 600 miles. The 600 miles came up so the driver pulled over and duly drained the oil, got back in and drove off!!!!!!!!

Most of the transmission fluid is in the torque converter and that is why you need to frequently change a small portion.

Burnt oil is a sign of clutches burning out and you are heading for a rebuild, mine is being rebuilt at the moment, just under four grand but there were no outward signs of a problem. I just wanted it to be in good nick before long trips that I am about to take towing a 20' caravan.

Cheers and happy motoring.

Mike

Hi Leo109,

Make sure you have the engine running and the Auto in Park after warming up the fluid and run through the gears as well before you check the fluid level otherwise you will have a mess on the floor. Do not turn the engine off until you have the plug back in. Their should be a 2mm bead running out if the fluid level is correct.

Nick

I believe the numbers on the service interval grid are how many hours that particular service should take? Don't quote me on that though.

Thanks Nick, I did omit that vital bit of information.

And, on the oil pouring on the floor!!!!

I was servicing a Mack truck one day, drained the oil into a 20 gallon drum and had to walk across the workshop to get the oil 4 litres at a time.

After many trips back and forth imagine my surprise when I saw the pool of oil spreading across the workshop floor. I had not put back the drainplug and all the oil I had put in had filled the drum before it then overflowed onto the floor.

Another oops moment in my career.

Cheers

Mike

Hi Ian,

I forgot to mention the auto !
Oldtimers disease

As mentioned, dump and fill as per the instructions above.

IMO only use a full syn ATF.

Castrol Transmax Z is still the preferred fluid IMO (or any ZF TE-ML-11b fluid) but the price has sky-rocketed!
I'm using Penrite FS ATF.
It doesn't have a ZF licence number but meets Dex IIIH frictional requirements while having far superior oxidation resistance to a mineral ATF, hopefully similar to Transmax Z

On special it was half the price of Transmax Z.

If you do three fluid changes within a few weeks you'll get the bulk of the old fluid out through dilution, it wastes a bit of oil but there will only be a small % of the old stuff left.
As I mentioned before the hoses fittings can and do let go.
The consensus seems to be to drop the lot at the cost of a vast amount of swearing and get Pirtek/Enzed/whoever to make up better crimp fittings and re-fit


Basic rule of thumb with the TD5 is 10,000km.
It's probably over-servicing at those km, the centrifugal filter is bloody good, but if you are doing a lot of short trips or working it in high humidity (Hello SE Qld!) it'll be about right.
In a more temperate climate yeah, 20,000km with a decent oil would be a cinch.
My preference is for a dedicated diesel oil, something like Penrite HPR Diesel5.
It seems to be everyone's go to oil and appears to give good results.

Other compartments as per the D1, although the factory fills were semi-syn fluids.
Tailor the OCI's to your fluid choice and usage.

Air cleaner element is an issue, most don't seal properly.
OE Genuine or Mann-Hummel. At one point the Genuine ones were an issue, and that was from a dealer! but whoever is supplying ATM seem to be OK.
Centrifugal filter= OE Genuine or Mann-Hummel
Full flow filter probably doesn't matter that much, but Genuine, Mann, Mahhle, Sogefi/Coopers (not Australian Cooper) take your pick.

There are some really good heads in this section that know much, much more about a D2 than me and there's heaps of info here and it's fun to learn about the newer stuff, which is hilarious as we're fifteen years behind !

Originally Posted by rick130

... and there's heaps of info here and it's fun to learn about the newer stuff, which is hilarious as we're fifteen years behind !

Indeed! In my first post I quipped that it was time to put away my 300Tdi toolkit (half a house brick and a blunt screwdriver) and get into all this new-fangled, hi-tech, State of the (early 2000s) Art stuff!

I ordered engine and auto filters kits yesterday. I think they are both Bearmach kits, so I hope the filters are good quality. I know this is probably a very silly question but a don't suppose the air and conventional oil filters for the 300Tdi and the TD5 are the same? Or should I just slap myself across the face right now for even suggesting for such a thing...

Re. changing the auto fluid, would you do the 3 or 4 dilution changes before or after dropping the sump and changing the filter?

On engine oil, given our climate (that's actually fit for human habitation, i.e. never below 0 and usually about 20 by smoko in the middle of 'winter'), I was leaning toward 10W40 rather than 5W30 or 5W40. (In fact, I even had the temerity to ask whether it might be OK to use up my many drums of Castrol RX Super 15W40 CI4+ E7 oil in this climate. Suffice to say, there were no votes in favour...) Am I just showing my age by favouring thicker oil? Is, say a good 5W40 quite OK for ambient temps from well below 0 to the high 40s?

Thanks again for everyone's help.