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Thread: crankshaft rear oil seal change

  1. #1
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    crankshaft rear oil seal change

    Hi! It seems that soon I will also need to change my crankshaft rear oil seal as started to drip. Not so hard yet but visible under the car.
    I have heard several opinions which says that changing the seal is useless as soon it will start leaking again due to its construction and maybe bad quality replacement parts.
    But I do not like oil under my car, so I would like to solve it.
    So if you have already some experiences your advices would be appreciated!
    Have you used genuine LR part or OE also same quality (I have heard that even original parts are not so good quality). Have you used instant gasket or other staff?
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    The rear oil seal can't be replaced without removing or at least loosening the oil sump and gasket. The gasket has to locating dowels/nipples that embed into the rear seal.
    Fitting the seal is the same as earlier versions, clean riding face for the seal lip and use the plastic fitment sleeve to avoid damage.
    I reckon the sump gasket is where leaks are mostly occurring, you need to RTV around that area and I just reckon that with the fiddlyness of fitting the pan and gasket that a good is often lost. It would also be time to put a new gasket on during the change.

  3. #3
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    I have replaced a couple of rear main seals and never had problems with them leaking soon after replacement (they were replaced as a precaution when the gearbox was out - when leaks have developed it is related to the sump so I would always looks there first.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve_a View Post
    The rear oil seal can't be replaced without removing or at least loosening the oil sump and gasket. The gasket has to locating dowels/nipples that embed into the rear seal.
    Fitting the seal is the same as earlier versions, clean riding face for the seal lip and use the plastic fitment sleeve to avoid damage.
    I reckon the sump gasket is where leaks are mostly occurring, you need to RTV around that area and I just reckon that with the fiddlyness of fitting the pan and gasket that a good is often lost. It would also be time to put a new gasket on during the change.
    Thanks for the advices! And what is your opinion about the quality of parts to be used? Should I buy the original seal and gasket or the OE are same quality?

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    It is such a pain and large amount of work to get to I'd always go land rover original or at least OEM. If you need to replace the seal it is gearbox or engine out, a good days work at least. If you have an auto then you need to make sure the converter is fitted right and there is a lot of messing.
    The price difference for LR part at probably AU$50 and aftermarket at AU$25 is not worth the time. It would have to be quite a big difference to justify not getting the best you can.

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