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Thread: Fan bearing/warm timing cover help

  1. #1
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    Fan bearing/warm timing cover help

    Need some ideas. A while ago I replaced the bearing on the viscous fan- had been making some fan squeal and has started to fail.
    At the time I noticed the new bearing went in far too easily.
    Now I'm getting very tinny rattle from front of the engine. Has a 12 month old tensioner. Have checked all the pulleys and the only movement is from the fan. (Can't seem to upload video. But there is definitely movement).
    So, is there a way to re-pack the timing cover where the bearing sits? I saw once that someone had drilled/tapped 2 screws into the timing case to hold the bearing. Can't find that post anymore.
    I'm hoping I don't have to get a new case/ remove head etc. Can I make the joke a bit wider and pack around the bearing with something?
    Thanks for the assistance.
    .............
    Cheers, Josh

  2. #2
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    I recall someone centre punching around the edge to tighten the housing.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  3. #3
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    Ended up drilling and tapping the timing case.
    .............
    Cheers, Josh

  4. #4
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    Nice job
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

  5. #5
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    don't think its the fix I would have used, fitting with the correct Loctite would have been my fix, I would be concerned that may create hot spots on the bearing and It just forces it off centre in the housing by what ever the housing is worn by at one end, allowing the other end to float.
    cheers
    blaze

  6. #6
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    I was a bit nervous about it. Made a call to the land rover guys in Redcliffe who advised that they have done it a few times without any issues. But was still nervous about ME doing it! Hopefully it will be the right solution.
    I too thought about the heat. I used an up rated bearing that was meant to handle higher speed than the original (so the bearing wholesaler tells me), making me think it could handle greater heating.
    Side note- after winding the bearing out a few millimetres, I actually pulled the bearing out by hand.
    Thanks all.
    .............
    Cheers, Josh

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR1 View Post
    .... I actually pulled the bearing out by hand.
    Thanks all.
    We had the same issue with my brothers TD5 a while back.
    Didn't know about the centre punch trick, and to get him going we used some Permatex sealant along the edges of the bearing faces and a dab at the rear making sure it doesn't get into the bearing itself of course.

    Then found out that a centre punch would have done a decent job of it and miffed that we didn't think of it.
    But the copper coloured goop is holding up very well. Zero movement from the bearing.

    Main reason I responded tho is to offer an opinion on the condition of that front cover. Looking at all that cracking texture doesn't look good and I'd be worried about it totally fatiguing now that it has added tension on it via those grub screws.
    The case now has come outward forces on it due to those grub screws, and with heat, and being aluminium .. and the fatigue cracking/crazing texture .. I can't see it all ending that well.
    If you have long term plans to keep the vehicle, I'd suggest you start the process of locating a replacement for that front cover.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  8. #8
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    Good to know. I had been wondering what was happening to the surface. It looks like it's been coated and the coating is lifting. I'll keep a close eye.
    It was my understanding that to do the front cover properly, the head had to come off. Not sure if the previous owner has already had it off. Has done 320k. If I get another 50k km out of it before then, I'll be happy. Time to save a few $$- I can't see me selling it anytime soon. Am enjoying it too much.
    .............
    Cheers, Josh

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR1 View Post
    ont cover properly, the head had to come off.
    According to RAVE, there are two nuts and two studs connecting the timing cover to the cylinder head. I'd guess that you could remove the nuts and then the studs, Then the 8 screws (They look like bolts) holding the timing cover to the block.

    The oil sump bolts need to to removed.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
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    LROCV #1410

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR1 View Post
    Good to know. I had been wondering what was happening to the surface. It looks like it's been coated and the coating is lifting. I'll keep a close eye....
    Ok then .. can't really tell from pics, but maybe try to 'scratch' some off to see if it is a coating of some kind(paint maybe).

    If it's just the coating then probably just not well prepped before being applied, or cheap coating.
    If it is cracking tho .. then you keep an eye on it.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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