Printable View
I have used Penrite 5W40 Diesel for the last 180,000 on the Defender and would not use anything else.
Just because a mechanic says so does not mean it is an absolute, just the way they have been trained, misinformed or trying to sell you oil.
As for the loss of oil, was the sump empty or just off the dipstick? Very unlikely for the oil itself to be the cause.
Just my thoughts but I wouldn't bother with 5k changes unless you are towing all the time at high rpm and close to GCM. But YMMV.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
Just the dipstick. Someone said that in snow/cold you use more oil as the engine works harder. But I'm not a mechanic so I'm just going by what others have told me.Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
Pretty sure by the time this disco is ready to be put in Land Rover heaven that I'll pretty much be one tho!!
I'm a steady driver. When I tow it's our 1.6t jayco swan camper, and even then I'm gentle.Quote:
Originally Posted by gusthedog
I do drive the speed limit I'm just treat it like a 4wd not a performance racer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
Fuel economy/usage is a fair indication of how hard the engine is working.
yes the td5 has a great oil filtration system with the addition of a centrifugal filter but towing 1.6 t long distances is working a 2.5L pretty hard imo.
I tow a 1.5 t KK camper and the oil gets changed every 5 to 10 k.
Not towing and lightly loaded 15 to 20 k is probably realistic.
Paul.
I've been a long time full synth convertee for many(20+) years now. Unless the engine is about to cark it, I use full synth.
Started with my old P6 V8s carried onto the RRC .. etc.
Once the engine is at the 300-400+ klm stage and nearing the end of it's life I stop using it.
On my 300 Tdi D1, I've owned for a bit over a year, I changed the oil, even tho the previous owner had it serviced just before I got it.
I changed to synth and now prefer Penrite(mechanics advice).
So the only variation to my oil now is grade type. Oil filter is changed at every oil change. Some changes at 10K others at 7.5K or so .. always below 10K tho.
Yesterday i changed oil again for its 10K, and my parts guy didn't have the full synth I wanted(15W50), but did have a 10lt semi synth(15W50) drum on special.
Why not try it.
Lost 5psi(most likely more tho) on average oil pressure .. that's why not.
Obviously not a reason not to use semi synth, as the oil pressure is still fine .. but it's definitely lost 5psi from what the old oil provided, and having just gone back through my logged data, looks more like close to 10psi with fresh 10W50 full synth.
So the (10K km)old 10W50 full synth oil provided 5psi more for the same conditions than the fresh semi synth now does! :thumbsdown:
I'm going to treat this semi synth oil as a flush(desperately needs it) add a flush additive and will change before the hot weather really starts down here.
so +1 to the full synth vote from me.
We're talking about a 20 year old engine here. On the off chance that the original engineers had half a clue, and the engine has lasted this long perhaps they got it right. [bigsmile1] So (for a TD5) 5W40, 5W50, 10W40, 10W50 and 10W60 will see you fine :) (from owners manual).
If you're running in the Andes at 5500 metres or in Antarctica at -55C or in Ambon at +55C hauling mammoth tusks or the like I'm sure a case could be made for the use of fully synthetic lubricants, but for a 20 year old engine in 'normal use' I just can't see it.
From new my 2004 dealer serviced D2a had Castrol GTX, a semi synthetic and did fine. Sure a new common rail cutting edge, ours is better than yours engine might require 0W5 Hummingbird urine to meet spec but I'm pretty bloody sure good old fashioned Castrol GTX semi synthetic will continue to do the job in a 20 year old Td5. Last month Repco had Castrol GTX 10W40 at $18 per 5 litres, [bigsmile1]. I stocked up. [bigsmile1][bigsmile1]
Deano :)
What oil?
Rick would be the most savy oil guru on this forum.
Ok. Pretty much everyone is using Penrite HPR Diesel 5W40. I'll just be a sheep and follow suit.
There was brief talk about checking the oil pump bolt at 'next service', then loctiting it, torque it up & forget about it. Is this worth doing?
If you don't know 100% for sure if it has been done, do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2