Thread: TD5 synth or semi synth oil?

Use the recommendation as a basic guide.... Brands are another thing...

As you stated about another oil you used, the engine was drinking it...

I have come across engines that run well on one brand and cant stand another... Also engines that run on a type that was not recommended but still somewhat suitable, and perform perfectly with no sign of wear...

Classic example, (not landrover engine) Castrol recommended for Cummins BC3, engine was drinking over 5 litres a day(200,000k on clock, so near new), I changed to Delo, (same as in the GM's) as I had a full drum of the stuff... Not the recommended oil only close thing was the viscosity... No oil usage, oil didnt thicken or thin too much, no sludging, and oil sample showed a drop in wear...Cummins told me they would no warranty any work while I used that oil, I didnt use them, I did work myself and 600,000 k's later I got rid of truck...

I recommend staying within specs of engine recommendation but find the oil the engine loves not the one it loves to drink... If you know your engine well enough you should be able to tell what it likes best and what suits you...

My mechanic has told me that my TD5 will run better on 15-40 as its done 415000K's does this sound fair?

I would stick with the original spec oil that you have been using... Going to a heavy oil is not wise unless your trying to keep it going until it dies...

In your case, if you are not going through oil like you own the refinery and the bottom end has no crank rattle or the likes, then dont change... The engine got this far down the track with what you have been using, why change now...

Heavier oil will cause more wear on bearing surfaces, engine are built to certain tollerances and thinnner oil is always the best start but if you go from an average ambient temp of say 25c and then live in an area that averages 35c, of course a thicker oil is worth a change, but remember going from 5/40 to 20/50 is too much... Most of the time I find cleaner oil in the heat is better than thicker oil...

Oh yea, the old oil debate
Specs for Td5 is 5-40 .
Most wear is done on start up, engineers know what oil is needed to protect that so hence the specs.
Keep to it.
No brainer , full syn. is a superior oil hence the price.
Mechanics opinions are varied, mine said avoid brand changes, stick to specs, yeh ok.
Another " change every 5K " , old view with mineral oil.
I use Nulon full syn. 5-40 as I chose this ages ago and just stuck to it, never comes up on bloody "specials" , at 10k, both filters, oil always looks like Im wasting my money could go longer but so what.
Full synth on all other oils.
GTX Castrol /?went in my HR ute.

Originally Posted by DANNY2503

I currently use Penrite Hpr5 Diesel in my customers cars on their TD5's, but in my own I am testing a mineral oil called ULX110. If you google it their is some great info which puts this oil way above most.
I will have the oil tested at 10,000 Klms and report back on what the tests say. I did a complete flush with a cheaper mineral oil as well as new filters inc dropping the sump (needed a gasket anyway) to remove any excess oil that can't be removed with a normal change.
The oil is out of SA and on initial change I must adnit it was certainly smoother as well as felt a slight increase in power. They also do mention lower noise levels but I do not hear that.

I ran ULX in my track/street cars years ago and it was brilliant.

I've used this Proma gear for ten years or so, and couldn't be more impressed. At nearly 500K, the old girl is defying gravity. BTW, I'm not a distributor for the product.

Originally Posted by John_D2

A couple of mechanics recently said that they only use fully synthetic in a TD5 (such as valvoline synpower?). I've been using Valvoline Engine Armour Diesel 5W40 (as semi synthetic) with no issues in the last 20 months or so. I change to oil every 5000k, tow occasionally, and use the car as a kids taxi and work commuter. Sometimes it even goes off road!

I did try Penrite fully synthetic enviro + 5w40 a while ago, and whilst on a snow driving holiday in Tasmania this year, I checked my dipstick one day and it was empty - not too keen on going back to that one!

Most of the info that I'm getting from forums, websites, etc is to use Penrite HPR Diesel 5 - a semi synthetic.

Sorry, I don't mean to bring up a subject that has been flogged to death, but if I am asking this question, then so is someone else.

If the engine armour has been fine for me so far should I stay with that or is there a benefit in trying something else. I'm planning on having this car for the long haul.

Hi There,
just love the old oil debate. Personally run a full synthetic, RP 5W - 30 is my oil of choice, this is what I always run, oil and air every 10K, oil filter every 5k, engines are expensive oil is relatively cheap, filters are even cheaper. A few years ago I did some oil sampling and analysis investigation for my own self interest, as far as I was concerned the cleanliness of the oil doing what I do seemed to be the best for oil quality and overall engine condition.

Cheers Marty

Originally Posted by Kandy

Oh yea, the old oil debate
Specs for Td5 is 5-40 .
Most wear is done on start up, engineers know what oil is needed to protect that so hence the specs.
Keep to it.

And the difference in kinematic viscosity at most startup temps seen in Oz (not alpine areas) between a 5, 10 and 15W-whatever is bugger all.
in places north of the tropics it really will be no difference, and I've seen a 15W-40 have a lower viscosity at 0*C than a 10W-40.

No brainer , full syn. is a superior oil hence the price.

No, not by a long shot.
There are quite a few full mineral oils I'd take over a number of full syn oils and I know they will deliver superior results, and that includes gear/diff fluids.