You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
I have driven a lot of tracks, with zero wheel spin. I would consider lowering tyre pressure in perhaps 5% of cases. For comfort, more than anything else.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
is it just me,,
or is there something wrong with a car that needs a big right foot to engage traction control,, yet aparently breaks the transfer case if you do it without the cdl engaged??
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
IMO nothing will happen to the transfer box cos TC was conceived to work instead of the CDL that's why on early modells when CDL is engaged TC is inhibited and on the late ones with the uprated SLABS the TC is addapted to the CDL and rarely comes on so if you want to lock the CDL dont expoect too much from the TC or if you want the TC to work well dont lock the CDL, keep constant rpm around 2500 and it will do it's job
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I have to say that IMHO it is spinning a front wheel which is the typical situation that kills centre diffs . It affects cars without traction control more but you can still do it by being an idiot and keeping your foot in it, or going 4wd with the 3 amigos and keeping your foot in it.
I bought a transfer in bits to get the nose with the selector, and the thrust washers were all stuffed and there was a heap of brass swarf in the little sump casting . So the only circumstance that I could see that happening is excessive wheelspin and /or failing to change the oil .
My Centre diff at 170KK had pristine thrust washers and no swarf which to me indicated the PO had never taken it off road which I believe from talking to the PO..
So I think it is still possible to kill a centre diff in a D2 but you have to be a bigger tool than in a D1 or RRC.
Regards Philip A
Hey guys,
I fitted the selector mechanism without much difficulty. Had to cut a bigger (square) in the top black cover plate (to accomodate the sideways movement of the lever, as per the link someone posted on this thread, thank you) . Adjustment of the cable was easy enough.
However, I looked for the CDL switch but could not find it (or maybe one beer too many). I have a bunch of loose connectors but no switch (beer and whisky don't mix). That however is not a problem to me, as I prefer no interference from the traction control electronics. When I engage CDL I have no indication on the dash (obviously because of the missing switch) which is also fine. I struggle a bit to go from HR to LR (even before I hooked up the CDL) and back but that is normal as I have experienced the same difficulty with my Toyota's.
Here is my question: Because I have nothing telling the traction control that the CDL is "active" (in my case it is a purely a mechanical selection), I take it that the traction control would want to "interfere" while CDL is engaged?
Also, my 3 Amigo's are permanently lit up, does this mean that the traction control by default is not "active" because of the 3 Amigo's?
Lastly, can someone point me to where I can get quality wheel speed sensors to try and kill the 3 Amigo's permanently (I have rplaced the shuttle valve and solenoids allready).
Thank you guys.
Danny
So I have CDL and twin lockers does TC brake the axles or only wheel's?
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