If you want to maintain higher revs in high range why not just use "S" Sports Mode.
The beaches around the Midwest coast of WA are usually pretty soft and I don't have too many dramas on them.
If the going is really soft and "Fluffy" I will run in low range But usually high range works just fine.
If you don't engage the CDL or lower your tyres down to at least 20psi then that is a quite different story [bigwhistle]
from my understanding from RAVE putting it in manual mode essentially would perform the same function or similar to the lock up override .Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHunter
my 3 times a week beach is normally hard pack and just the access to it has a couple of spots where holding it in gear and on the torque peak rather than it kicking back then shifting again would just be nice.
so the total cost of experiment will be around $0 as I have switches and cable just laying around.
will try it and see what results..
once done and tested will post my results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by micky_b_25
Not meaning to cause offence here but that's not doing the car any favours, might pay to do a course and learn a bit more about the vehicle.
Yeah you want decent rpm with these td5s and any sml capacity diesel. Since getting all my telemetry up and running, it's very evident that keeping rpm between 2200 & 3000 is where you get best oil pressure and lowest egts. Bog it down and egts spike and oil pressure drops...and coolant flow would be less, so over time there would be heat soak.Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
Even running along Fraser at high tide , I can get into 3rd lock and then back off to a safer speed, but get below 1900/50ish and all temps start coming up (except gearbox of course).
Then if I drop out of lock and into unlocked 3rd or even 2nd, egt and coolant temp will drop and oil pressure increases but trans temp will slowly rise. Provided good airflow though trans never gets into the 100s though by being sensible on the throttle.
Balancing act but on the soft but flat/long distance sand runs, the holy grail would be 2Nd high locked so decent rpm can be achieved with a lower speed and that's why I want to fit the lockup kit.
So how does the "Lockup Kit" work? Because if your auto changes while locked up the hard changes will shorten the life of the box I think.
Nick
I hope you have an EGT gauge too cos tricking the ECU to go for low range fuel map without that torque in reality might send the EGT up in the sky
From what i understand, it just tricks the control module into locking. Wholesale auto say it's very much a manual control thing, you don't want to let it change in lock nor do you want to stop or it will stall the car. I think the self imposed rule would be to use it only when manually selecting a gear and to switch it out if you start approaching kick down or kick up.
Or you could just select 2nd gear high range and proceed [thumbsupbig]Quote:
the holy grail would be 2Nd high locked so decent rpm can be achieved with a lower speed and that's why I want to fit the lockup kit.
This exactly , reading through RAVE doing what i'm going to try will lock the convertor but once you get too low RPM it will auto unlock go back to first gear, once you start moving it will go from first to which gear is selected.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHunter
whereas a lock up kit will just lock the convertor.
One way to find out though....
It won't lock the torque converter though , so it's just making heat. Towing or on the sand it's not ideal.Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105