D2a Oil Additives - any experience or advice?

Arthur, first up the fuel additive.

Yes, the elevated wear metals were as a result of reaction between the additives in the fuel additive and the bearings.
I confirmed this with a very reputable oil analyst I've used over the years.
He had found this happening a lot with customers analysis. Only a few didn't impact the bearings.

I used to use Redline RL2 more for pump lubricity than anything as it contained an ashless lubricant, but when the pump was overhauled two weeks ago for the new owner the diesel service reckoned it was toast ?
The funny thing is the Tdi is horrible now, blows white smoke and misses.
Before hand it started instantly and ran like a top! but I digress.....

Petrol fuel additives are only recommended to be used once or twice between oil changes at full dosage, and I reckon that'd be a good rule of thumb for a diesel too.
I used to use a maintenance dose, probably only 60-70ml when I had elevated wear metals with the big fuel company additive.

Re the Tdi and sooty oil.

One thing is that when doing an oil change quite a few hundred ml of old oil is left behind in a 300Tdi thanks to the sump plug sitting quite a few mm above the bottom of the sump and the residual oil left in the oil cooler circuit.
I actually measured it once but can't recall atm exactly how much, but it was significant and really surprised me.
If you are using a flushing solvent not all of it is being drained away.

Re flushes, some companies use certain esters that act as very strong detergent/dispersants while also being very good lubricants, a lot use diesel mixed with mineral oil.
Have a look at the MSDS and check the CAS numbers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

I used the second one fairly regularly over 250,000km, and when I popped the head on the Tdi @ 320,000km the pistons and bowls were spotless, you could read every marking/make/number on them.
That was impressive.

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Hi Rick,

Can you tell us which brand was the good'un? I've been using Fuel Doctor semi-regularly for many years (maintenance dose about every 2nd of 3rd fill). Also been using it a decrepit old MF-300 Drott that sits out in the weather for months at a time between uses. After cleaning out the tank thoroughly a few years ago and fitting a Delphi glass bowl filter at the tank outlet, the bowl has remained clean ever since. So it seems to be doing the job controling moisture and algae issues. Hope it's not been corroding the 300Tdi's internals as well...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

Re flushes, some companies use certain esters that act as very strong detergent/dispersants while also being very good lubricants, a lot use diesel mixed with mineral oil.
Have a look at the MSDS and check the CAS numbers.

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Hi again Rick,
So, what are the good CAS Nos. to be looking for?
Ta.

MSDS = material safety data sheet
CAS = Chemical abstract service.

Thanks for the cryptic clues Rick! :D

I don't think there are particular CAS numbers to 'look for', as all they relate to is what the chemical compound really is.

So I have a product that contains the compound 7732-18-5, and a quick search on the NIST database for CAS(which doesn't give any safety related info tho .. ie. no MSDS info), that search reveals that this compound is Dihydrogen Oxide , or more simply H20 ... ie. water(as listed on the product MSDS area).

Awesome info, thanks Rick. [thumbsupbig]
Helpful when trying to compare products.

I have never been a Fan of additives, If something is worn and noisy it needs to be fixed Not patched up.
Just because the noise has gone it doesn't mean the problem is fixed.
Regular oil changes and I mean ALL the oils not only the engine and regular maintenance Has to be a far better approach than simply adding a bit of stuff to the sump/diff/transmission when a problem is found.

Sorry for using abbreviations, didn't think!!

I think the tabs are still open in the lap top, I'll post up the CAS #'s for diesel and kero later.
I did have a quick look and a well known additive brand was using something like 50% diesel in its engine oil flush!!

Ian, I used Redline RL2 diesel fuel additive for years and it never showed up in oil analysis.

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Originally Posted by AK83

MSDS = material safety data sheet
CAS = Chemical abstract service.

Thanks for the cryptic clues Rick!

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By the way guys, I did an agricultural chemical accreditation couse this year and it seems 'MSDS' are just 'SDS' now. Must have been too complicated before...

Oil flush concentrate i double change, so that only happens when I've scored a killer deal on oil at rep o/supercheap and maybe every 30thousand. It's surprising how much more oil is collected after the flush.
The cem cleanpower maybe every 5 tanks, which in my case is 600L or 5000km.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rick130

....

I think the tabs are still open in the lap top, I'll post up the CAS #'s for diesel and kero later.
I did have a quick look and a well known additive brand was using something like 50% diesel in its engine oil flush!!

....

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When I was (not really) flushing my D1 with the last service, I had my dad over.
He kept advising to add some diesel, and then the fresh oil, to help flush out the old black gunk from the sump.
I had a bottle of Harley Davidson 30 grade, I poured in to help with getting some of the old black gunk out. Worked OK.
I reckon I poured in about 2 lt(maybe less) and then just let it sit for a few hours(I love daylight saving [thumbsupbig])
The HD 30 grade did eventually flow out clean, and then just waited.
Added my Penrite stuff and good to go. 1K klms later black again! :(

My mechanic also said, just chuck some diesel next time!(but not run it, just through it before the oil) .. that's what most flushes use! .. LOL!

Anyhow I ordered the CEM stuff now, will check how it works for me. Will get some cheapo oil again to do the flush .. proof, as they say, will be in the pudd'n.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AK83

When I was (not really) flushing my D1 with the last service, I had my dad over.
He kept advising to add some diesel, and then the fresh oil, to help flush out the old black gunk from the sump.
I had a bottle of Harley Davidson 30 grade, I poured in to help with getting some of the old black gunk out. Worked OK.
I reckon I poured in about 2 lt(maybe less) and then just let it sit for a few hours(I love daylight saving [thumbsupbig])
The HD 30 grade did eventually flow out clean, and then just waited.
Added my Penrite stuff and good to go. 1K klms later black again! :(

My mechanic also said, just chuck some diesel next time!(but not run it, just through it before the oil) .. that's what most flushes use! .. LOL!

Anyhow I ordered the CEM stuff now, will check how it works for me. Will get some cheapo oil again to do the flush .. proof, as they say, will be in the pudd'n.

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In all seriousness, ensure that you have a drain container that can handle another litre or two of oil. And yes, after you add the oil, change the filter after the flush and run it, look at the dipstick carefully to see the oil. I honestly thought we forgot to add oil when we flushed the hilux; the oil was that clean.