D2a Oil Additives - any experience or advice?

**AK83** · 17th December 2017, 07:44 AM

When I did my brief flush, I had both the sump plug and oil filter off at the time.. just to eke out every last drop of the black stuff .. probably 3 hrs or more draining, went to the market with my dad and all that jazz.
Can't remember but I think I even lifted the front of the car a bit too and a few hundred mls exited the plug too.

My other problem is that I can't get the sump off without a chisel either(tried).
Someone has sealed it up with some cement like goop.
Doesn't leak, that's for sure, and I don't want to risk damaging the block face.
Tried to use a screwdriver on the goop(between sump and block) and all it started to do was bend the sump down without releasing it at all! Tapped it back with a small hammer and put all the bolts back in and left it.

**trout1105** · 17th December 2017, 07:56 AM

Here is what the inside of my sump looked like a while back, I doubt that any amount of flushing would clean all this gunk out.

sump2.jpg

**rick130** · 17th December 2017, 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by trout1105

Here is what the inside of my sump looked like a while back, I doubt that any amount of flushing would clean all this gunk out.

sump2.jpg

And you wouldn't want chunks of that being dislodged and be sucked back through the pickup, pump, possibly bypassing the filter when it's in bypass and going further......

**trout1105** · 17th December 2017, 08:08 AM

Originally Posted by rick130

And you wouldn't want chunks of that being dislodged and be sucked back through the pickup, pump, possibly bypassing the filter when it's in bypass and going further......

I had only driven the truck for 40,000 with 5 oil changes in that time before the head gaskets failed.
The entire engine was full of this crap complements of the PO and the obvious lack of prior servicing before my ownership.
All has now been thoroughly cleaned out and after 3,000k's the oil still looks like new on the dipstick.

**rick130** · 17th December 2017, 03:43 PM

Originally Posted by trout1105

I had only driven the truck for 40,000 with 5 oil changes in that time before the head gaskets failed.
The entire engine was full of this crap complements of the PO and the obvious lack of prior servicing before my ownership.
All has now been thoroughly cleaned out and after 3,000k's the oil still looks like new on the dipstick.

My comment wasn't a judgement btw, merely an observation that a 'harsh' flush isn't always a good idea.

There's one flush I know of that is lanolin ester based and slowly breaks down the crud over two oil changes and several thousand km.
Basically a flush and rinse.

**trout1105** · 19th December 2017, 08:59 AM

[QUOTE=rick130;2752433]My comment wasn't a judgement btw, merely an observation that a 'harsh' flush isn't always a good idea.
QUOTE]

I didn't take your comment as a judgment at all, In fact I completely agree with you about the excess crud causing problems if it is just loosened up and not removed with the flush is done

I have had other engines from new that I have done the oil changes more frequently than recommended by the manufacturer and when I have taken the rocker cover or the sump off these they are pretty much spotless.
I am of the opinion that an aggressive servicing routine will eliminate the need to flush out the crap because it won't build up in the first place

**AK83** · 19th December 2017, 05:54 PM

I got my CEM stuff yesterday.
Nothing on the bottle re: SDS or CAS info.
No indication as to what's in them at all.

I thought is was a legal requirement to list all chemicals on all products

Anyhow... looking forward to using the oil cleaner thingie in the next week or so.
The other product I got was the coolant flush stuff.
My water(only) runs super clean in and out of the coolant system, and having recently changed water pump, there isn't much 'browniness' in the metal areas of the system that I could see .. so I'm interested to see what this stuff does too.
The three long water pump bolts had a heap of buildup and rust on them(I think mainly sealant) so I replaced them, but the shorter bolts were fine.

**igould** · 21st December 2017, 11:36 AM

Originally Posted by AK83

My water(only) runs super clean in and out of the coolant system, and having recently changed water pump, there isn't much 'browniness' in the metal areas of the system that I could see .. so I'm interested to see what this stuff does too.
The three long water pump bolts had a heap of buildup and rust on them(I think mainly sealant) so I replaced them, but the shorter bolts were fine.

Are you using straight water in the system, or proper coolant?
I don't change too many water pumps, but the last time I saw brown water or rust on the bolts was in my old EH Holden days.

Ian

**AK83** · 21st December 2017, 11:38 PM

Car came with coolant(no idea which type) and I gave it a straight up water flush, which (partly) removed some brown crud with some reversing of the flow.
But have been using straight water for the last year .. and always find reasons to avoid doing the flush again as well as the new hoses, and rad and ... whatever else I bought back in '16!

Threads on the long bolts had silicon looking goop, but the non threaded sections were all rust, on the whole the WP internals looked in very good nik! .. and my guess is that it'd been done a few years back.

I did the first dose with the CEM coolant flush stuff yesterday, and took about an hour to change the water in the cooling system this morning.
CEM flush stuff seemed to have done something(so far).

Noted in the coolant reservoir tank some brown colouration to the water, and some almost foamy brown oily residue floating on the top of the water at the edges.
It stuck to the inside of the coolant reservoir too.
I'll get some rice and more of that CEM stuff and water into it and swirl it around a bit more on the next flush action.
Kept flushing till only clear water emerged from all coolant paths, added another dose of the CEM stuff again and took it for a drive to confirm bleeding was done right.

On the drive, I also wanted to test for 'heating up' issue with AC on on the highway.
With AC on, I'd usually get high 80's - low 90's at highway speeds on a gentle run even on a moderate mid 20's °C day .. and a bit more if more power was required of the Tdi.
Today tho, up the freeway towards Broadford with some of it's long but not too steep climbs... it never stayed above 85°C .. one or two brief seconds to 87-88 on a couple of occassions early on, but me thinks that may have been the outrush of coolant flow with the opening of the thermostat.
No matter how much accelerator was needed to maintain highway speeds, with EGT in the 690's .. coolant temps never exceeded this arbitrary 85°C level the engine seems to have settled at now.
Without AC, it still sits in the low 80's all day.

Before: with AC, it'd see higher 80's, and low 90's easily on a cruisy 80k/h run. A bit more than that would see low 90's more often. a very short climb, very moderate grade for about 20sec climb, I'd see mid 90's by the crest and then dropping as it levelled and began a very slight downhill(ie,. lift off right foot).
Now waiting for ome hotter mid 30's weather to see if it still climbs above 103°C with AC on.

So as it currently stands, I'm happy with the result I've got so far with this CEM coolant flush stuff.
I have it running again in the straight water, I'll leave it for a few days(short drives) and maybe early new year I'll dump it all, change all hoses(finally after over a year

) and I'll finally get to use some of the 20lt drum of Pentrite coolant I also have had sitting for over a year.

Thread: D2a Oil Additives - any experience or advice?

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